Heaters

[scientist0724]

I think it depends on what you need them for.

If you are trying to hide the heater and making the tank more of a show tank, I'd go with the Cobalt.

However, if it's more for breeding tanks or farm tanks and you need a bunch of them, I'd go with the Jager.

Arlene

 

[Ading522]

I think it depends on what you need them for.

If you are trying to hide the heater and making the tank more of a show tank, I'd go with the Cobalt.

However, if it's more for breeding tanks or farm tanks and you need a bunch of them, I'd go with the Jager.

Arlene

thanks arlene!

 

[Avatar]

Ah-ha

Occurred to me when responding earlier to Andy that if the heater element was encased in ceramic or some such rather than hanging in air that a thermal cut-off switch could be used that has a much lower threshold than 150-300° meaning that it wouldn't have to cook your tank before it shut itself off, as well as being less prone to breakage. I'd bet that's why the Cobalt units are flat - there's no air inside, just an encased coil/filament. Probably why they also recommend horizontal placement as it would bleed/distribute heat better than being vertical.

 

[Ading522]

Occurred to me when responding earlier to Andy that if the heater element was encased in ceramic or some such rather than hanging in air that a thermal cut-off switch could be used that has a much lower threshold than 150-300° meaning that it wouldn't have to cook your tank before it shut itself off, as well as being less prone to breakage. I'd bet that's why the Cobalt units are flat - there's no air inside, just an encased coil/filament. Probably why they also recommend horizontal placement as it would bleed/distribute heat better than being vertical.

is this the same case with the jagers and fluval series? or does this only apply to the cobalts?

 

[mchambers]

To clarify: the manuals for the Cobalt accutherms (the less expensive model) seem to recommend VERTICAL placement. Don't know about the neotherms.

The Aqueon pros can be placed horizontally.

 

[AndyNarwhal]

Curious/bizarre that the sensitivity of the cut-off switch allows temps of 150°-300° or is there some reason that switches with a lower sensitivity aren't utilized, e.g., because that's the range of internal temperature inside a normally functioning unit?

Sorry if I wasn't clear, that range isn't specific to any one heater. It was a range of all heaters and sizes. Smaller heaters don't get as hot. An Aqueon 50 watt has a 150 degree thermal cutoff. The 250 watt has the 300 degree cutoff. The exact degree that the temperature cuts off will depend on wattage and brand. The higher the wattage the higher the internal heat (as a result of the energy required to heat a larger volume of water).


Cobalt heaters are rebranded AquaEl heaters which are made in Poland.

Andy

 

[Avatar]

Made in Poland

Cobalt heaters are rebranded AquaEl heaters which are made in Poland.

Not sure why this is relevant. Polish, rebranded or otherwise, the Aquael/Cobalt neotherms appear to be a quality product based on superior design and could well represent the future of aquarium heaters. Not as if the Italian manufacturing pedigree did much for Stealth heaters - understand the same facility now manufactures Aqueon heaters, yes?

 

[ezrk]

Poland is probably neither here nor there (and actually Poland is probably pretty reasonable from a standards point of view). This is actually pretty good as it means there is some track record from Europe that these heaters will work.

As I understand it much of Cobalt's line is re-branded products that have been sold primarily in Europe. IMO there is nothing particularly wrong about this and I actually think Cobalt is reasonably open about it.

 

[AndyNarwhal]

cobalt? do you know where they are made from? its the first time i have heard about them..pretty pricey too..just looked them up.. anyone else with more info or experience with cobalt heaters?

Someone asked, I knew the answer that's all.

And the Stealth heaters started failing AFTER Marineland switched the manufacturing from Italy to China. You may remember that they launched a new line called the Stealth Pro which replaced the original Stealth. The Stealth Pro was Chinese made and the model that started exploding. It was because of the end of that relationship with Italy that the Aqueon Pro heaters were able to come about. Another product that was from the same vendor was the Maxijet powerheads. The Marineland version is now made in China. Sometimes getting the lowest cost isn't the best thing.

Les Wilson at Cobalt can tell you all about it. His Maxijet pumps are the same as the original Italian made ones. Cobalt and Aqueon both buy products from the same vendor. But he can't get the Italian made heaters because of Central's agreement so he went to AquaEl.

Andy

 

[Tony]

Thanks for all the great info, Andy. Really appreciate hearing the inside scoop.

 

[Avatar]

Well alright then

Thanks for all the great info, Andy. Really appreciate hearing the inside scoop.

Ditto for me.

Very reassuring to hear from someone that actually knows from being there/doing it. Not surprised at all to hear about the problem with China - seems every equipment company rep I've ever spoken with has volunteered at least one story about lousy/difficult to maintain quality control issues. Also very glad to learn that the EU imprimatur retains it integrity in addition to its cachet.

 

[dogofwar]

German plastic can't be beat. Same with Swedish latex.

At least that's what Tony told me

At what angle from vertical will shut-off switches fail to work properly.

Matt

Ditto for me.

Very reassuring to hear from someone that actually knows from being there/doing it. Not surprised at all to hear about the problem with China - seems every equipment company rep I've ever spoken with has volunteered at least one story about lousy/difficult to maintain quality control issues. Also very glad to learn that the EU imprimatur retains it integrity in addition to its cachet.

 

[Avatar]

Well

Heat does rise, so anything a few degrees less than a 90° right angle should suffice, neh?

 

[mchambers]

One would think. In any event, the advantages of having my heaters inclined outweighs the risks, at least in my mind.

 

[AndyNarwhal]

You have to remember that "tricking" the thermal cutoff to not shut off will only occur in some very specific abnormal situations. If you run the heater horizontally completely dry it will cut off (the UL tissue paper test I talked about earlier).

At least part of the glass needs to be submerged in water to cool the area around the thermal cut off component. Because the PC board runs down the middle of the glass tube the thermal cutoff component isn't centered. It's going to be on one side or the other of the PC board. If the heater is angled but the thermal cutoff is still under water it may not shut off. At the same angle, but with the heater flipped so that the thermal cutoff is on top and emersed it will probably cut off.

I can't tell you specifically because that isn't a variable in any test that we test for.

One would think. In any event, the advantages of having my heaters inclined outweighs the risks, at least in my mind.

Completely submersed there is no problem in putting a submersible heater in any angle as long as there is good circulation around the heater.

In a sump situation where there is a risk of exposing the heater causing a potentially catastrophic fault that could potentially BURN DOWN YOUR HOUSE! I would have to think that that would outweigh any aesthetic benefits.


Andy

 

[Jmoore]

I will never buy deep blue again... I put the heater in on Thursday, and checked back Friday after school and the temp was 92* and half of my benga peacock juvies were dead... I was so mad... Now I need to buy 2 new heaters


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