Well, it is about time to set this tank up...

[hurtmypony]

Okay, I am starting with a modest 55 gallon here, and I am broadening my limited knowledge with some equipment that is new to me but that I now own. I'm OLD SKOOL, yo!

So, I think I will bury my newfound comrades of the Capital Cichlid Association under an avalanche of questions.

I was going to preface my questions with more of my endless blather and unbelievable lies about how we didn't have glass OR water when I was a kid, and that all my first tanks were made of 3 foot thick granite on every side and filled exclusively with pudding, but I will spare you all and cut to the chase...

This is my first canister filter I have ever used. I got the Eheim 2217. I have some questions:

I am using sand as a substrate (if it matters).

1. How high should I fix the intake and outtake on this canister?

2. Is having the intake and outtake on opposite sides of the tank the best way to set this thing up?

3. It is new-in-box and has the default media. Is that good enough to start, or should I buy and jam some more media into it? If so, what kind?

4. Is the heater better placed near the intake or outtake?

5. "Intake" means going into the tank [and not the canister], right?

To back up this bad boy, I also got a Penguin BioWheel 200, something I have used for years and with which I am already quite comfortable. To ensure even temperature, I also got one of those neato Koralia Evolutions to move and agitate the water a little better than the two filtration systems would provide on their own.

In my old tanks, overkill on the filtration always worked well for me, so I thought I'd try it again with some of the newer products.

6. Does all this sound okay?

 

[jonclark96]

Sounds like you are on the right track. I personally like to have the intake and output on opposite sides of the tank to promote flow. If you are using sand, I would keep the intake 6" off the bottom or use a prefilter to protect the impeller.

I have several ehiem filters and use the prescribed media with no complaints.

 

[dlfn1]

when i think of intake, it means going into the canister filter.
i usually put the heater at the opposite side of the intake, but i guess it doesn't really matter. either the heated water gets moved around from the water flowing out of the outtake or it gets sucked into the canister and then moved around.
i also put the intake and outtake on opposite sides like jon, to promote water flow.
i'm pretty new to canister filter as well, so far i've only used the supplied/default media.

 

[Cartel]

Intake would be going into the filter outtake is exiting the filter. I would place them on opposite sides of the tank. I like to place the heater as close to the intake with out touching as possible. I feel like it helps the tank be heated more evenly with the flow. You can get spots that are different temperatures in a tank sometimes. I love koralias so good buy! Sounds like your on track.

 

[hurtmypony]

Thanks, guys.

I was trying to keep most of the stuff on right side of the tank, since the front AND left sides will be the most prominent in the room, but you have convinced me it is definitely better to "distribute".

I guess I need:

RIGHT SIDE:
Heater
Koralia
Eheim intake

LEFT SIDE:

Penguin 200 HOB
Eheim outtake.

That's a little weird with the Eheim dumping into the tank exactly where the Penguin is sucking it up (and dumping), but that means both aquarium ends will be sucking up bad water (200 GPH on the left, 260 or so on the right), as opposed to one side of the tank having a massive 460 gals per hour. Balanced filtration sounds better for the fish.

Here's where I get farcical:

If all the filtration was on one side, the hygienic differences of the two ends of the tank would ultimately divide the tank into an upper class paradise (the side with all the filtration) and a lower class "Mbuna Ghetto". On one side the denizens would play squash and discuss dividends. On the other, since they are deprived a pollution-free existence, a lawlessness would set in. They would home-brew amphetamines out of distilled StressZyme and embellish their fins with platinum and other suitable bling. This would ultimately lead to one side claiming persecution, the other overloading on their sense of entitlement. Class riots would follow, making an already violent Mbuna tank even more so.

Sorry, I am weird. I will distribute the intakes, though. Fight the Power!

 

[Reel Addiction]

I would put the koralia on the opposite side of the ehiem intake. Reason being you can adjust the head to move the poo across the sand to the suction(intake) of your most powerfull filter.

 

[hurtmypony]

I would put the koralia on the opposite side of the ehiem intake. Reason being you can adjust the head to move the poo across the sand to the suction(intake) of your most powerfull filter.

Though you offer sound logic, sir, I was hoping you wouldn't tell me that.

I wanted the left side to have less viewing obstruction/distraction when you first walk in and see the tank. I want visitors to see fish! Not intricate mechanical workings dangling about!

I can already hear the biting reviews of insensitive guests!

"Your tank looks like the inside of Darth Vader's mask, Tim..."

 

[toddnbecka]

One good thing about eheims, the water goes through the media before it reaches the impeller. Even if a bit of sand does get sucked up it won't reach the impeller, unlike hob filters that will quickly be ruined by sand. I use sponge covers on all my filter intakes, though mainly to keep duckweed and Najas from clogging them than to keep sand out.

 

[hurtmypony]

Thanks for the tips!

I have another question about filtration:

Okay, opening up the box for the Eheim 2217, I have:


1. Two lengths of flexible tubing, of two different widths
2. Two nut valves, one of each to fit the two different widths of tubing
3. The cane-shaped hard plastic tube for the intake
4. A length of straight hard plastic, and a length of cane-shaped hard plastic that is the diameter of the outtake (this is the spray bar, I guess...)

It appears the nut valves only work with the flexible tubing as there is no way to directly secure them to the hard plastic pieces.

Am I supposed to cut a length off each of the flexible tubes, marry them to the nut valves, and then attach the cut pieces to the hard plastic ones?

If so, do I lock one of the end of the cut flexible tubing into the nut valve, and just slip the other end over the hard plastic tube, like a sock?

Sorry for the basic question. The manual seems rather unintuitive, and I am having difficulty understanding the steps.

 

[jonclark96]

I think you have the right idea. The plastic tubing should fit tightly over the hard plastic parts. If you are having trouble, put the end of the tubing in hot water for 30 seconds and it will be flexible enough to slip onto the rigid pieces. You can also use small hose clamps from Home Depot if you are not comfortable with just the friction connections on the tubing to rigid plastic joints.

I connect the valves to the tubing and then to the cannister with the cannister in its final position before doing any cutting. Then run the tubing in to the approximate final location in the tank making sure to leave a little slack. Then cut and connect the tubing to the rigid plastic.

Hope this helps.

 

[hurtmypony]

You rock!

Thank you, I didn't want to cut anything without confirmation that I was supposed to cut it...I could determine no other way to do it, though...

That manual that comes with the filter makes no mention of this or really anything else...sigh.

 

[jonclark96]

You could get away with not cutting the tubes as long as you don't mind the extra running behind the tank.

 

[hurtmypony]

Yikes, I think I am confused, now.

I only received two lengthy flexible tubes in the box - one that fits the intake and one that fits the outtake.

I assume both ends of the nut valves have to fit on flexible tubes, since the hard plastic parts (the hooked-shaped ones) don't fit on the nut valve ends.

So, I think I have to cut both tubes into two pieces, and use one piece from canister to nut valve and the other piece from nut valve to tank.

And I do this for both intake and outtake.

Am I making sense? Are my assumptions correct?

Sorry, I am a canister noob.

 

[jonclark96]

You are correct. I was thinking of the pro II series that don't have the separate quick disconnect valves. Use a shorter piece to get the valves to an easy spot to get to so you disconnect to clean the cannister. Then set things up so that measure for the intake and spray bar.

 

[hurtmypony]

Thank you very much for the information.

Sorry I am such a needy type. I really stepped out of my comfort zone with a lot of this equipment: sand, canisters, and smart heaters (that's a whole other story) are completely new to me...

I was a little worried "friction fits" were not how it was supposed to happen officially, but cutting the tubing seemed the only way that would allow all parts to fit together.

I was reluctant to turn the basement into a lake, though, so I needed your experience (and a couple of Google shots of people's set ups) to confirm it.

In fact, the friction fits still worry me, though I am sure a number of you have used them without issue for years.

I just may get some of those hose clamps you mentioned. I'll hit Home Depot again tonight...

Thanks again!