• You liked BFD7 now you should join this forum and of course become a club member to see what CCA is all about.
  • Thank you to everyone who registered and showed up for the BIG Fish Deal #7.

DIY Foam and Concrete Background for 55g

AquaStudent

Members
Here's the progression of building my DIY foam and concrete background. It was a fun project for sure!

The plan is to get at least one 8'x4' sheet of insulating foam from my local hardware store and cut that down to size to make a rock background. Cut out "rock pieces" from the remaining part of the sheet to bring the background into the 3rd Dimension. I'd cover the background in concrete and then silicone it to the back wall (and perhaps use some buried rocks to keep it against the glass and not floating.

NOTE: the background (and aquascape) will need to be in at least three pieces because my tank has a center brace.

The tricky part will really be the aquascape. I want to build up a realistic looking scape, ideally reminiscent of Lake Malawi but upon more thought that may be tricky to do. The aquascape must accomplish a few goals

1) Cover up/hide the aquarium equipment including the filter intake/outflow, heaters, and powerheads
2) Provide ample hiding places and cover for fish of all sizes and have open spaces for swimming
3) Not restrict the light to the tank (the light is mounted 5+" above the tank so this may not be much of an issue)
4) Look awesome (because it's going to be a permanent aquascape)

The aquascape will be built off and blend with the backround. I plan on using the foam sheets from the local hardware store and foam inserts that come in some packaging. Those should be able to give me random pieces that can be cut down and form rocks.

An interesting thought I had was caves and hiding places can be built and supported with PVC (white) or Electrical conduit (dark gray) tubing. That may provide a safe and easier way to provide caves and hiding places.

Does anybody have any experience with building a background/aquascape and have any suggestions on how to build this. I head back to school most likely on the 20th of January and want to have it soaking in a tub outside a couple of days before then to finish off the pH spike.

Thanks. Here's a shot of the tank for your reference.

DSC_0043_zps02e675e0.jpg

EDIT: Here's How I'm making my Background

Supplies Used:
2'x8' Sheet of Insulating Foam - Pink
Random Packaging Styrofoam (Used for Rocks and Scaping)
Gorilla Glue
GE Silicone I
Concrete
Concrete Color

I figured out where each piece of equipment will be. I then decided how I wanted the water to flow through the tank and made sure the equipment (heaters, powerheads, filter parts) were in locations that would allow for their proper performance.

Cut the 2'x8' foam to fit the tank. Two sheets the dimensions of the tank will be required, one as a "spine" and a second for decorating rocks.
Mark out where the equipment will be and how you want the decorating background rocks to be and their shape.

I had to cut my background into three sections in order to fit it into the tank. My tank is a standard 55 gallon setup which has the center brace. Keep this in mind when planning your background.

IMG_0200_zps97859c3e.jpg


Cut out the rocks and locations for the equipment. Shape the rocks by trimming the edges with a knife and sanding to blend. Glue into place. I marked each rock with a number to keep the spot.

IMG_0201_zpsc83ea1ff.jpg


IMG_0203_zpsa385c519.jpg


Weighing down the rocks while the glue dries makes for a stronger bond. I let this go overnight.

IMG_0204_zpsdaf4d254.jpg


Continue to cut out rocks and build the chambers for your equipment. Blend the edges with a knife and sandpaper. Expandable spray foam will be used later on to fill in gaps and help a bit more with blending.

IMG_0205_zpsb8b7161b.jpg


Now we're getting somewhere!

This is after the glue dried
IMG_0207_zps2b2de176.jpg


Archway Sidewayish view
IMG_0210_zps9299583b.jpg


Foam!

IMG_0211_zps8e957a99.jpg


Here's the pieces after two layers of concrete. I took these photos before I added the third and hopefully final layer of concrete (added to put in more texture).

Left Piece:
IMG_0212_zpsa24410cc.jpg


Center and Right Pieces:
IMG_0213_zps8f2ea1c3.jpg


I now have the pieces siliconed into the tank and them soaking. It took quite a bit of planning, cutting, and retrying to get the pieces to fit in the tank. I also had to do some modifications to the heater port on the backside but that's all fixed now (and the heater is even in place!)

I apologize in advance for the major reflections in the picture. The tank is in a tight spot right now (and I don't want to move it by myself if I don't have to) and the lighting is poor. But it gives you an idea of what it looks like.

DSC_0157_zps7c4bfe57.jpg


I also took a piece of leftover black canvas from when I made a moss wall and used it to create a dynamic cover for the surface adgitation power head. That way water can get out but fish can't get in :D The plastic canvas is siliconed to the inside of the chamber and pinned under the tank frame. I can slide the canvas back to unpin it from the frame and get access to the powerhead and filter intake chamber

DSC_0158_zps2a2bf4d9.jpg


pH Tracker
Control: 8.0
1 Iteration: 8.2
3 Iterations: 8.8+

Here's a shot of the pH test tubes. The far left is the third (maybe 4th actually) waterchange. I left it soaking for a few hours with the Hydor 1050 powerhead on for water circulation. It may have gone off the charts of the High Range Test Kit. The center is the first waterchange after soaking for a bit. The far right is the control of fresh water. The colors are a bit darker in person. The camera (with the flash) makes it seem much more translucent.

DSC_0164_zps8f0beb6c.jpg


After another complete water change and a good hour + soak I tested params again. It looks like they are at about 8.2. That's good (since pH is measured on a logarithmic scale). The leeching may be dieing down. I'm goign to wait a little bit longer then empty out the tank, fill it up again, and then head to bed and test the params again in the morning.

To fix the leeching problem I covered the concrete using an acrylic concrete sealer. There are two ways to use the sealer, as a cover and as a mixer. You could mix the sealer into the concrete and then add to the foam which may prevent leeching in the first place. Since I was sealing after I just covered the outside of the concrete. You are supposed to use an airgun to spray on the sealer but I didn't have one and wouldn't have been able to maneuver it in the tank anyway. I used a brush and it was thicker than I wanted in some places (understandably) and effected the color. Use an air gun to spray the pieces before adding to the tank or mix the sealant into the concrete originally.

After sealing the leeching was not an issue

Here's the "finished" result. Because I didn't have time to let the foam sit as long as I wanted to there was some shrinking. A few locations had pieces of cement chip off but I will be able to fix that this summer (hopefully).

January 2, 2013
DSC_0043_zps02e675e0.jpg

February 2, 2013
2013_02_02-1e_zps5868ebf5.jpg

2013_02_02-2e_zps6e32ffba.jpg


NEW VIDEO SHOWING THE AQUASCAPE AND FEATURES!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJLZfkXLvus
 
Last edited:

jonclark96

Past CCA President
Thanks for sharing the step by step. I've always wanted to do something like that but never had the time to do so. Tank looks great.
 

dogofwar

CCA Members
If you use Drylok instead of concrete, you won't need to cure it (at least according to the DIY's on cchlid-forum)...

Matt
 

MonteSS

Members
Very nice job.

I used Drylock paint and it worked well. I took the trim off the top and think that was easier in the long run.

Be carefull about caves and hiding spots built in. Very tough to catch fish when you need to. Ask me how I know :)

....Bill
 

AquaStudent

Members
Here's a quick update and answers to the new posts. The background is holding up great. I had a few parts chip off in the first few weeks of use but since then most pieces have held up great. The parts that did flake off were over top the GreatStuff Expanding Foam. It seemed as if the foam shrunk when exposed to water/concrete. I'm not sure if there is a way to seal it to prevent this effect. Most of the places with the foam held up nicely so it may have been an anomaly of how I applied the foam/concrete locally.

The missing pieces did not really matter in the end anyway because algae has now colored up the background and given it a much more natural look. I'll upload a photo hopefully later tonight.

What type of concrete and concrete color did you use? Does the color have to be a special type?


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app

I just used a small concrete repair kit. I think it was about 20 pounds of concrete. I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make if you used something that was more gravely. It may just affect the final texture.

For color I just used the concrete color powder. It wasn't anything fancy, just about $8 extra for the single box of charcoal color. If I had the extra time I would have also picked up brown and green colors and mixed in some more textures. You could really get some great shadowing going.

Either way the color will come in the long run with algae growth. I'll upload a current photo of the tank to show how it's developed.



Very nice job.

I used Drylock paint and it worked well. I took the trim off the top and think that was easier in the long run.

Be carefull about caves and hiding spots built in. Very tough to catch fish when you need to. Ask me how I know :)

....Bill

Yes. Catching the fish can be quite tricky. So far I haven't had a reason to only remove one or two fish. When I was moving the tank this summer I just lowered the water level down and then it was not a problem at all.

Sweet looking background man! :happy0180:

Thanks amigo!
 
Top