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Bought a welded dtand for 125....issues

Goonie

CCA Members
*edit* stand.... my smart phone hates me...




so the 16 in span is not level opposite sides sit a little high at the joint( no welds involved) I know I can't put the tank on the stand like that.

I have had two ideas, one is grinding it level, we are talking millimeters.

Or the other option a plywood foam plywood sandwich.

Any thing else that I may be overlooking? Which path is most likely to be successful?

Thanks :)
 

Becca

Members
No idea how to fix it but I'll have a cabinet stand for a 125 available within the next few months if you can't fix it.
 

xny89

Administrator
Staff member
Hi, I live in Silver Spring, 20904. If you wish, I have a grinder and welder to correct what you think needs correction. Hit me up if you want to come here (social distancing enforced) and "do it".

Abby
 

Goonie

CCA Members
That would be awesome issue is ild have to rent a truck. The welds aren't affected, so I may just be able to take off a little thickness.
 

DiscusnAfricans

Past President
Even if you end up doing work on the stand it's probably worth still using the styrofoam and plywood route, at minimum it'll insulate the tank.

Curious to see the end result though.
 

xny89

Administrator
Staff member
an inexpensive grinder with a metal grinding wheel is all you need to grind down the high spots - I agree that using the foam/plywood will also help
 

Goonie

CCA Members
It has begun.

1/2inch home insulation foam between 2 pieces of furniture grade sealed maple plywood.

Rough cuts are done.
Sanding this week end.
Liquid nailing the 3 pieces together.

Then to pretty it up may add some trim to cover the cross cut and foam.

Debating making magnetic panels for the stand to match the wall.

20200420_191848.jpg

20200420_191843.jpg
 

FishEggs

Well-Known Member
i would not use the liquid nails if you're talking about the type that you use in a caulking gun. if you get the wrong type it will just melt the styro insulation and if you get the correct type it is too thick and you could re-introduce high spots that you just spent time grinding down.
 

Goonie

CCA Members
Good to know what would you use?

Was debating not grinding any thing just sanding a small pocket into the plywood.
 

FishEggs

Well-Known Member
personally i probably wouldn't bother with gluing it. once the stand is on it and filled it wont move. but if you want to glue it, use a thin glue like wood glue that will spread evenly. some foam boards have a thin plastic sheet on the surface that you should peel off first before gluing. if you have any leftover latex paint you could even use that. 3M makes a spray adhesive specific for foam if you want to go that route but then you have fumes and need substantial ventilation.
 

Goonie

CCA Members
got it to within 1-1.5mm all around the tank ( water level)

hard scape is mostly done, plants should all be in by next week end.

Then I will start to "finish" the stand and hide the plywood and power cords.

20200429_054817.jpg

20200429_054800.jpg

20200429_054757.jpg
 

ddavila06

Members
nice! are you able to see the tank from both sides ? I especially like the broken "stump" on the first photo on the left that is covered with some sand. the tall stump is trying to float? the amount of eco and sand on top are ideal, nice deep bed!
 

Goonie

CCA Members
The one that looks floating is just the taller one it does have a hollow back which im putting in line with the pillar. I will likely plant some vals between it and the glass and let it be a hide for some loaches or maybe a peacock eel
 
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