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180 gallon 72x24x24 referral

Alex

Members
Anyone know a reputable company that sells 180 gallon glass aquariums in the DC metro area?
1. is buying a tank with low iron crystal clear glass worth spending the extra money
2. is it better to get tank predrilled and use an overflow box vs integrating plumbing inside the tank (corners)? I am concerned about the plumbing taking up space inside the tank
3. Tank is going to have African Cichlids but Im going to use a sump AND Fx6 Fluval for extra filtration (can never have too much filtration)

kindly advise
Alex
 

JLW

CCA Members
So do I. :)

My opinions on it:

1: Low Iron Glass, Starpphire etc., makes the glass MUCH softer. It isn't quite as bad as acrylic, but it becomes WAY easier to scratch the glass. If you go this option, you should treat it like acrylic -- use ONLY pads that are acrylic safe, no razor blades, etc. You can use the glass safe stuff and get away with it for a long time, but... one slip and you're toast. It is not repairable. Personally, I do not see a big difference in optics. I have tanks made entirely out of Starphhire, and I think they were just an extra expense that makes removing algae difficult. Most of them get scratches within a year.

2. The integrated overflows through the bottom of a tank can be set up to be ultra silent. They're less prone to failures, as well. I'd go with a "reef ready" tank wherever possible. Overflow boxes are great and all, but they're NOISY.

3. With a properly sized wet/dry sump, your fluval will do little more than circulate water. :) Still, backups are nice!
 

Alex

Members
So do I. :)

My opinions on it:

1: Low Iron Glass, Starpphire etc., makes the glass MUCH softer. It isn't quite as bad as acrylic, but it becomes WAY easier to scratch the glass. If you go this option, you should treat it like acrylic -- use ONLY pads that are acrylic safe, no razor blades, etc. You can use the glass safe stuff and get away with it for a long time, but... one slip and you're toast. It is not repairable. Personally, I do not see a big difference in optics. I have tanks made entirely out of Starphhire, and I think they were just an extra expense that makes removing algae difficult. Most of them get scratches within a year.

2. The integrated overflows through the bottom of a tank can be set up to be ultra silent. They're less prone to failures, as well. I'd go with a "reef ready" tank wherever possible. Overflow boxes are great and all, but they're NOISY.

3. With a properly sized wet/dry sump, your fluval will do little more than circulate water. :) Still, backups are nice!


JLW,

EXCELLENT info!!
#2...is the space the "reef ready" tanks tank up significant? Do you prefer the two corner plumbing or two center plumbing?

A
 

JLW

CCA Members
The space they take up is nothing. You're loosing a few square inches, and its really not much. Where you put the plumbing is a matter of preference and space; some of my tanks, I have the overflow drilled dead centre in the middle of the tank! Its easy to hide in the corners, though. :)
 
Research the "Bean-animal overflow". They are dead silent and with a double back up safety. If you are thinking of having your tank pre-drilled.
 

Aqua410

Members
Herbie style plumbing is pretty quiet but any of them can be decently quiet if set up right. I have the durso style stand pipe and once I got it set up right it's not bothersome. Something to start thinking about is how you want to set up the sump. I'm a fan of wet/dry systems and they can be built with Rubbermaid drawers very easily. I have a 5 drawer system under my 75 gallon.
 

carl_d_c

Members
I recently set up my old coral frag tank as a freshwater tank, and re-did the stand pipe using the stockman setup, it's Soooo much better that the double 90 that I used before, You Tubed it!
 
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