Power Loss Heating

[ezrk]

After reading the many accounts of power loss due to Sandy, I am motivated to put together a bit better power loss preparations...

Battery powered air pumps are pretty straight-forward, just need enough D-cells to keep them going. But it is clear that heating is a challenge. Obviously the first step is to insulate the tanks better to keep them warm, blankets and possibly mylar surival blankets seem like a good choice, the mylate can more easily wrap around the bottom of the tank.

But that is probably not enough, even in the Fall with temps in the 50s or so. We are entirely dependent on electricity here, so no hot water heater and no stove to boil water. We live in a condo and don't really have room for a generator...

The only thing I can think of are heating packs like those used for shipping. After the water has started to cool, pull out half of it or so which is better for oxygenating it in any case, tape on some 72 hour heat packs to help maintain the temperature at least a bit.

Anyone have any other ideas? Any thoughts as to if this is even worth pursuing or is the heat output too little to matter?

 

[Frank Cowherd]

Most everyone, even during a power outage can heat water for coffer or tea or oatmeal using a Coleman stove or some other type of camping stove or even a barbeque grill. Well, if you heat a pot of water, does not have to be boiling, and put it in a hot water bottle or plastic bottle with top, you can float it in the aquarium to keep the temperature up. If you are drinking bottled water you have a lot of bottles you can use for this.

 

[Avatar]

And of course...

..if one gets to the point where one is heating water "manually" makes a lot of sense to drain the tanks - much easier to maintain temperature for 20 gallons of water than 50 or a 100.

 

[ezrk]

..if one gets to the point where one is heating water "manually" makes a lot of sense to drain the tanks - much easier to maintain temperature for 20 gallons of water than 50 or a 100.

Yep, I think you want to keep all your water until it cools to the point you feel you have to heat it - then drain it pretty aggressively.

 

[mrkillie]

DEPENDS....

..if one gets to the point where one is heating water "manually" makes a lot of sense to drain the tanks - much easier to maintain temperature for 20 gallons of water than 50 or a 100.

If you'd rather spend more time but at shorter intervals, keep the higher volume. If you want to do it for less time but much more frequently, drain the tanks.

 

[ezrk]

What about a kerosene heater? Just heat the space indoors to keep it reasonable in the tanks (70ish)?

How hard are indoor kerosene heaters to maintain? We wouldn't have much use for it outside of emergencies. Will kerosene keep?

 

[hollyfish2000]

If you read Bill's lessons learned, he said pulling tank water, heating it, and putting it back worked better than floating containers of heated water in the tanks.

I have gas, so I can always heat water for the tanks . . . (let me clarify, I have a gas stove!!!!)

 

[mscichlid]

A kerosene heaters would work, but they stink.

 

[ezrk]

If you read Bill's lessons learned, he said pulling tank water, heating it, and putting it back worked better than floating containers of heated water in the tanks.

I have gas, so I can always heat water for the tanks . . . (let me clarify, I have a gas stove!!!!)

We have electric everything so can't heat water...

 

[AndyNarwhal]

You can buy a portable propane burner stove top at any sporting goods/camping store. I use them in my dining room for making hot pot. Can be very useful for heating water in a power emergency and doesn't stink.

Even having some disposable Sterno's around (the little chemical burners used to heat buffet table trays) can be used in a pinch.

Andy

 

[Grundsau]

I heard that back in the old days they used to place a candle or bunsen burner under those slate bottom tanks.

 

[AndyNarwhal]

Yep. Victorian era tanks were heated by candle. I would not try it with a glass bottom tank.