Mini Survey:Water Changes...

[Andrewtfw]

1a for me.
I add prime or pond prime for double the volume of the entire tank and then fill it back up with the python.

 

[mscichlid]

I fill up a resevoir with a mix 50/50 tap and rainwater and treat for the tap water. Aerate 6-24 hrs and refill tanks.

Filling from the tap requires that I would have to check the parameters of the tap every time. The parameters change after heavy rains and salt from the roads. Made that mistake just once.

 

[Jumbie]

I use RO unit and rain water for all my soft water fish, for my Africans I use the "bad" water from the RO unit with a little prime. I use to use water strait from the tap but now that I have more softer water species I have a lot of water left over from the Ro. I always use colder water to do my water changes in all my tanks.

 

[longstocking]

I wish I could do what george does but I don't have a basement and very little room so I can't at the moment. I do 1a most of the time. For sensitive fish I do let my water age. For shipping... I let my water age as well.

 

[YSS]

Somewhere between 1a and 1b.

 

[Frank Cowherd]

I have well water so no chlorine or chloramines. The water comes out of the ground at 54 F which is too cold to use straight. I use a garden hose to spray it into a 50-gallon plastic drum and let it set for at least 24 hours so it can warm up to room temperature.

There is more than chlorine to consider in making your water suitable for fish.
You need to consider temperature, chlorine, chloramines, oxygen, dissolved gases, pH, and hardness.
Chlorine and chloramines we all know how to handle -- just add one of the commercial dechlorination liquids readily available in the hobby -- commonly referred to as water conditioners.

Temperature is controlled either by mixing hot and cold water or allowing the water to set in a spare container until it comes to the desired temperature , sometimes a heater is used to get to the right temperature prior to use.

Oxygen and dissolved gases are often ignored by hobbyists.
But if you ever see lots of tiny bubbles on the glass, plants or fish after a water change you have a dissolved gas problem which can adversely affect your fish. Almost any water source which is under high pressure will have too much dissolved gas in it. This extra gas, like a soda, is released when the pressure is reduced. Under worse cases, the gas comes out inside the fish causing them internal damage. The easy way to remedy the excess gas problem in water under pressure is to spray it through the air. Even a short distance through air, like 2 inches, is sufficient to get rid of excess gases and bring the oxygen content of the water up to the maximum. And by the way, oxygen levels in water from the tap can be much less than the maximum. Oxygen may have been consumed by a variety of processes on its way to you, including consumption by bacteria (anaerobic or aerobic) or corrosion.

Hardness and pH are normally constant in any particular source and since fish can adapt to most any hardness or pH given time, most hobbyists tend to ignore these factors unless their water source has them at some extreme. But that is why RO units and ion exchange units and rain water are used. I did write an article published recently by CCA on this.

 

[Tony]

Wow great thread.

I tend to do somewhere between 1A and 1B. Used to just add the amount of dechlor to cover the water I was adding, but now do about 50% more... eg: 40 gal tank gets 20 gallons changed, I add 30 gals worth of dechlor straight to the tank.

After reading George's and Frank's responses though, I'm going to try to change things up a bit. Unfortunately, I don't have the room to age water either. My hot water heater only will allow me to do (most of) the fish room or 180 or the other misc scattered tanks in the house. Luckily, this is a winter thing and will be easier in the spring.

I only use the RO/DI setup for my saltwater tanks. The thing is just too darn small/slow for massive water changes.

Who else ages their W/C water?

 

[Matt]

1a...de-chlor is to cheap to skimp on when you are dealing with all the money we all have tied up in fish. I do not age my water, straight in from the tap.

 

[UNCLERUCKUS]

1a...de-chlor is to cheap to skimp on when you are dealing with all the money we all have tied up in fish. I do not age my water, straight in from the tap.

INDEED! I LET PRIME AGE MY WATER FOR ME INSTANTLY. I USE 1A AND I ONLY ADD PRIME FOR THE WATER I REMOVE AND A EXTRA SWIG FOR GOOD MEASURE .

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

I go by 1B. I don't see the need to add dechlor to tank water that is obviously fish safe. I've used the same method for Africans and discus and never had any issues. I don't have the ability to age the water, so luckily the fish are used to tap water.

 

[Cartel]

1a to 1b just depends what im feeling like.

 

[bschuhart]

I have well water so no chlorine or chloramines. The water comes out of the ground at 54 F which is too cold to use straight. I use a garden hose to spray it into a 50-gallon plastic drum and let it set for at least 24 hours so it can warm up to room temperature.

There is more than chlorine to consider in making your water suitable for fish.
You need to consider temperature, chlorine, chloramines, oxygen, dissolved gases, pH, and hardness.
Chlorine and chloramines we all know how to handle -- just add one of the commercial dechlorination liquids readily available in the hobby -- commonly referred to as water conditioners.

Temperature is controlled either by mixing hot and cold water or allowing the water to set in a spare container until it comes to the desired temperature , sometimes a heater is used to get to the right temperature prior to use.

Oxygen and dissolved gases are often ignored by hobbyists.
But if you ever see lots of tiny bubbles on the glass, plants or fish after a water change you have a dissolved gas problem which can adversely affect your fish. Almost any water source which is under high pressure will have too much dissolved gas in it. This extra gas, like a soda, is released when the pressure is reduced. Under worse cases, the gas comes out inside the fish causing them internal damage. The easy way to remedy the excess gas problem in water under pressure is to spray it through the air. Even a short distance through air, like 2 inches, is sufficient to get rid of excess gases and bring the oxygen content of the water up to the maximum. And by the way, oxygen levels in water from the tap can be much less than the maximum. Oxygen may have been consumed by a variety of processes on its way to you, including consumption by bacteria (anaerobic or aerobic) or corrosion.

Hardness and pH are normally constant in any particular source and since fish can adapt to most any hardness or pH given time, most hobbyists tend to ignore these factors unless their water source has them at some extreme. But that is why RO units and ion exchange units and rain water are used. I did write an article published recently by CCA on this.

WOW Frank, never though of Disolved gases! I think that's why I'm having some issues with my baby fry...I'm new to the breeding side of things and in the summer and fall no issues but the last few months bin having issues w/ my angel fry (sliders) I thought it was bacterial (swim blader desease), but after reading your thread...I do notice those bubbles at water change time, especially in the winter months...something for me to take a closer look at.

 

[andrewdo124]

1B for years but if I had the means, I'd do #2.