Gila window film

[Becca]

We just swapped out the background on the 150 for a sheet of Gila window film (purchased at Lowe's).

The application process was a little tedious, but the application went well. This film applies much more evenly than regular fish-tank backing and adheres using static cling. Bubbles were much easier to get out than regular backing, as well and, should we decide we don't like it, it's easy to remove.

We got the backing and the application kit (spray, squeegee, trimmer, cloth) for just under $20 and had enough of the backing leftover to do another small tank, if we want.

We used the black, but there are other color options available. Even though it is made to be translucent, with a wall behind it (about 5" between tank and wall) you can't see through it at all. The fish and plants look much nicer and it even seems to compensate a bit for our cheap LED lighting.

 

[mchambers]

Good to know. I've been thinking about updating the background on a couple of my tanks.

 

[chriscoli]

Hmmmmm nice!

 

[Leffler817]

umm nice?!? Did I miss the picture or do I just need to imagine it???

 

[Localzoo]

Did you get the car tint or the ones for homes? Lol now they need under glow jk jk I've seen the reflective back ones and different shades has no idea they did colors too


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[Becca]

I haven't posted a pic yet... I will, eventually, LOL. It is the film made for homes, you use a spray to help adhere it to the inside of the window then trim edges. You have to be careful not to get any spray in the tank.

The one thing I'm not loving is that the black background makes all of the air bubbles in the tank very visible. I know it's good to have air bubbles, but I also like the look of tranquil, crystal-clear water. We have our spray bars set up to produce lots of surface movement/air mixing, same with the powerhead.

 

[cichlidaddicted]

I hate those visible bubbles black backgrounds reveal but I love the black background. Canister filters reduce the bubbles as long as they are part of a sealed system allowing no air in. Wait till you add some melafix! The micro bubbles are so thick it looks like your dumping sand in. I've tried and tried to find a way to keep the black and reduce the bubbles. Best I've come up with is burying the air stone so the tiny bubbles combine to make large ones before they leave the substrate and either removing the hob or keeping the tank so topped of there is no agitation from the return. Also putting the returns on canisters about an inch deeper to eliminate the surface agitation. Still see water movement but no air becomes trapped in it. Please post pics I'm very curious how it looks and how it lasts.

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[Becca]

I hate those visible bubbles black backgrounds reveal but I love the black background. Canister filters reduce the bubbles as long as they are part of a sealed system allowing no air in. Wait till you add some melafix! The micro bubbles are so thick it looks like your dumping sand in. I've tried and tried to find a way to keep the black and reduce the bubbles. Best I've come up with is burying the air stone so the tiny bubbles combine to make large ones before they leave the substrate and either removing the hob or keeping the tank so topped of there is no agitation from the return. Also putting the returns on canisters about an inch deeper to eliminate the surface agitation. Still see water movement but no air becomes trapped in it. Please post pics I'm very curious how it looks and how it lasts.

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I think it will last well. It is actually what was on the back of the 29 I picked up 2nd hand almost a year ago. I thought it was a regular background until I took it off to paint the back brown. It looked great on that tank.

I have canisters, but position the spray bars a little above the surface so that they spray down into the tank. In the 150 the extra agitation is important because it has a good number of fish and it is really deep. One time my husband accidentally overfilled it and there wasn't enough surface movement - 12 hours later I came downstairs and saw fish gasping at the surface. That's when I added the powerhead - better safe than sorry, even if you do end up with lots of bubbles.