Coralife T5 strip light issues

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The half-life on these things is about a year. After that they're likely to fail at any time and because they're so cheaply constructed that they can't be repaired. What a load of BS. Have three that I bought new in the last two years that have all failed.

Having the bulbs outlast the fixture is a sad commentary on the Coralife name and company - don't expect I'll ever buy anything from this company again.

 

[chriscoli]

Although I know that some people swear by the brand....I'm having the same experience with Deep Blue. I've had new light fixtures and heaters die way too quickly from them.

 

[mchambers]

interesting. I don't swear by Deep Blue (and generally try to avoid swearing), but I haven't had any problems with their lights or heaters.

 

[Prince]

I have two 30" that are going on strong after 6 years of daily use. But mine were bought when the were sold under the Energy Savers brand.

 

[cabinetmkr39]

The half-life on these things is about a year. After that they're likely to fail at any time and because they're so cheaply constructed that they can't be repaired. What a load of BS. Have three that I bought new in the last two years that have all failed.

Having the bulbs outlast the fixture is a sad commentary on the Coralife name and company - don't expect I'll ever buy anything from this company again.

Hi Sam, I bought a used light last year and it went bad the first week. I contacted Coralife and complained about the quality of there fixture and they sent me a new ballast and bulbs at no charge. I'm sure a man of you stature already try this. just a thought.

 

[Prince]

Coralife is another Central Garden and Pet company. I have the guys email address if you want it. Or just give them a call. If you don't have thee receipt they may require you to ship them the faulty stuff. But they are great about replacing stuff pretty timely.


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[Avatar]

Can't say about "stature"...

Coralife is another Central Garden and Pet company. I have the guys email address if you want it. Or just give them a call. If you don't have thee receipt they may require you to ship them the faulty stuff. But they are great about replacing stuff pretty timely.


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...but I will most happily call them - will give me a chance to speak to them about their role in manufacturing disposable light fixtures.

 

[Nathan]

The ballasts they use are those and the compacts are total junk. If you can, replace them with a quality electronic ballast like fulham. I would reccomend Current lights over anything coralife these days.

 

[AndyNarwhal]

Except you are not going to find a ballast that fits inside the fixture. That's the price you have to pay to make the fixture as small as they are. The ballasts are unpotted and are just the PC board wrapped in a plastic sleeve.

Have you tried replacing the lamps first? Newer Coralife (and just about everybody else) T5 ballasts have end of life protection built into the ballast (as required by UL). This shuts the ballast off when it detects that the lamps have aged too far and are drawing more current than they are supposed to. So the lamps may work in other fixtures without EOL protection or where the EOL limit has not been detected (there is some variance in the circuit as to when it will trip) but the fixture will not light until the lamps are replaced.

I would not recommend taking it out on the Tech Support people. They don't design the fixtures or manufacture them. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar.

If you want to take out your frustrations feel free to take it out on me. They were one of my projects.

Nathan, You should know that Current and Coralife use the exact same ballast in their HO T5 fixtures. Other than the 48" Lunar Aqualight, Coralife does not make PC fixtures any longer and hasn't for some time.

Andy

 

[Avatar]

Thanks Andy

I'll look into it.

 

[JLW]

You catch more flies with honey than vinegar.

Andy

LIAR!

Put a glass of vinegar out, and put an open jar of honey out, and see which catches more flies!

I once cried over my spilt milk, and the waitress gave me another for free.

AND

I once waited, and waited, and waited, and I found out all the good things were gone.


Seriously, though, I've used the CRLF fixtures, and I have only one complaint with them. The bulbs are so tight in there that to get them and change them, I often break the fixtures. Beyond that, they're good, reliable, and I've had no significant problems. Considering I have about 50 of them right now, I think that's pretty good.

 

[Avatar]

Is that so?

Beyond that, they're good, reliable, and I've had no significant problems. Considering I have about 50 of them right now, I think that's pretty good.

You have "about 50" CFs or T5s?

 

[Hawkman2000]

This is why I am planning to just retro my perfecto into a dual or triple T5 with a good ballast. I plan on reshapping the refector, notching it for endcaps, installing ballast, and maybe even a 12v cooling fan. Not including bulbs, it should only cost about 60 bucks, and about 2 hours of time.

If you already have fixtures, I would check out the fulham pony ballasts. Don't know if they would fit, but if they do, it should be a permanent solution.

This is one of the few complaints I have read about coralife fixtures. I have heard and read many complaints about Deep Blue. I did read that Deep Blue changed out the ballasts they were ussing so that problem has been solved (hopefully).

If you are having alot of light fixture problems, I would suggest checking your voltage at the outlets while everything is running. Line voltage for residencial should be around 120v. In my experience, if it drops below about 114v, or gets above 126v, you could have problems with many forms of electronic devices. When voltage drops to low, the device will pull more amps, causing it to heat up and possibly burn out.

Another possibility is bad grounding. Is the device doesn't have a 3 prong plug its not an issue (more of a design issue really). If a device has a 3 prong plug, and you don't have a good ground, you will most likely have problems with that device.

 

[Avatar]

Sigh

CL T5 fixtures are not reparable. Period. And since everything else is running as it should I doubt that it's a voltage issue.

 

[AndyNarwhal]

The low profile T5's are not repairable. Just like any aquarium fixture they were never designed to be user serviceable beyond changing lamps. Having consumers repair fixtures on their own opens manufacturers up to liability issues that are far too risky for the manufacturer.

Heck if the fixture were to be UL listed you would technically need to use a trained technician just to change the light bulb.

Now I am not saying that you can't repair a lot of fixtures. HO T5 fixtures use conventional potted and boxed ballasts and anyone with a screwdriver can replace them. But we don't recommend it in order to protect us from litigation.

Fulham Pony ballasts are pretty good which is why we use them on the new Coralife Biocubes. But even they aren't perfect and will go bad every now and then.

Grounding is not an issue since the ballasts are not grounded. The fixtures themselves are grounded but this is to prevent an electrocution hazard in case the housing were to become energized through contact with an exposed wire. It has nothing to do with performance. Any fixture with a metal reflector or housing will have the metal components grounded for safety. That's a UL requirement but is also good practice regardless.

Josh, I know what you are saying about the bulbs being tight. Here is what I do. I turn the bulbs with my fingertips so that the pins are facing straight up and down. Then I flip the fixture upside down resting one end on the table top and holding the other in the air. With one hand underneath to catch the lamp, I tap the top of the fixture and the bulb will drop out. I hope that helps.

Andy

 

[Tony]

Andy,

While we're talking on the subject, I have a few of the old Coralife PC fixtures myself. I bought them new years ago and for the most part, have been happy with them. The ballast on one of them (24" double) went out a while back.

I know that the last generation of fixtures had ballasts that were modular that would click into place via the back of the housing (I bought one of these "bricks" at the LFS a year or so ago). This fixture is older though and doesn't have the slots. Is there a way to replace the ballast without having it separate/external from the fixture?

If not, no sweat. The front bulb still works and the fixture has served me for 5+ years at this point.

Thanks a bunch,
Tony

 

[Prince]

Hey Andy do you work for Central.


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[AndyNarwhal]

Tony,
It's probably the same ballast but is just located internally within the fixture. I am assuming it is one of the older bronze fixtures.

To access the ballast remove both endcaps and then remove the reflector. The ballast will be in the U shaped extrusion that forms the back of the fixture. The ballast is modular so simply unplug the old ballast and unscrew it from the channel it's attached to and then reinstall the new ballast and reconnect.

Prince,
Yes, I work in R&D for Central Aquatics.

Andy

 

[Tony]

Thanks Andy!

 

[Prince]

Tony,
It's probably the same ballast but is just located internally within the fixture. I am assuming it is one of the older bronze fixtures.

To access the ballast remove both endcaps and then remove the reflector. The ballast will be in the U shaped extrusion that forms the back of the fixture. The ballast is modular so simply unplug the old ballast and unscrew it from the channel it's attached to and then reinstall the new ballast and reconnect.

Prince,
Yes, I work in R&D for Central Aquatics.

Andy

Cool! I may pick your brain occasionally via PM. But I'll make sure I am not a bother.