American Cichlid Association

Cheap Lighting?

Beanie Seagus

Beanie Seagus

Members
That doesn't look bad, but then the issue becomes, how to incorporate that light into a lid set up.

I can't assume that I can hang it over the tank, so it really needs to be able to rest on top of an appropriate lid? any ideas there?
 
CSnyder00

CSnyder00

Bearded Wonder
If the lid is glass, you may be okay. You could also use a 2x4 brace above the tank and attach the light to it.
 
Z

zendog

Active Member
There are tons of these types of lights available and quality is all over the map. Read the reviews carefully. When people with an electrical background take them apart or test current, they often report they aren't the wattage they claim or they are likely to be short lived because of undersized LED drivers. Also, I'm not sure if the one linked to here has a plug on it, but many don't since they are meant to be connected as part of an external lighting system, not as a single plug in light.

That said, I'm using a couplde of 20W lights similar to the ones in that link. It is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GO1DY38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose them for what seemed like reliability and they also came already wired with a plug, although the cable was on the short side. Most are rated waterproof/resistant for external use which is nice around tanks with the occasional drop or 2 they might get on them.

I've had one sitting on top of a glass tank top which worked just fine. But now I have one zip tied to a the bottom of a shelf over 2 15 gallon tanks (the tanks are on end, not long wise) and it gives me plenty of light for basic lighting. I'll try to take a picture later today and post it so you can see how it looks.

It is nice to have it suspended over my tanks, since I don't have to worry about moving it to take the lids off and work on the tanks. One consideration is that beam angle on these is usually 120 degrees, so they spread wide quickly. When they are on the glass it fills the tank nicely, but suspended above there is some "spill".

I'm also using some LED par type bulbs in some cheap sockets that I hung over a container of baby tropical water lilies I was overwintering inside:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5LKIYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are much more directional and you can also mount them in those clamp on work light holders from Home Depot, etc.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/75-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-HD-200PDQ/205139241
You might be able to remove the reflector from these since it isn't necessary with this type of bulb.
 
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Beanie Seagus

Beanie Seagus

Members
Thanks zendog for another round of great suggestions. I'm actually doing something pretty similar to the LED bulbs in an incandescent clamp light.

However, what i really need is a nice and presentable option. I'm building a couple "show tanks" of the 10 to 20 gallon variety, and need it to look presentable and streamline.
 
CichlidAddict

CichlidAddict

Members
It's not worth to buy the high end named brand when you can find equivalent LEDs from Ebay at fraction of the price. The named brands use the same basic LED units made in the same few factories in China, just packaged differently with fancy remote and programmable controls.

When choosing LED lights, pay attention to the input unit wattage and the output lumen. LEDs come with 0.1, 0.2, 0.5 and 1 watt per unit. These are rough rating as multiplying the unit wattage and the number of units will give you the approximate, not true input wattage. The output lumen give you a measure of output brightness so you can compare apple to apple. For planted tanks, you need minimum 0.5 watt LED, but for fish only tanks, 0.2 watt is enough.
 
chriscoli

chriscoli

Administrator
Careful with the Beamswork lights. I've tried 3 and have had all of them fail (different reasons for each). The last one even burned holes through the cover over each LED. Check the previous threads on here about them....very mixed reviews.
 
bossanova

bossanova

Members
chriscoli said:
Careful with the Beamswork lights. I've tried 3 and have had all of them fail (different reasons for each). The last one even burned holes through the cover over each LED. Check the previous threads on here about them....very mixed reviews.
Click to expand...
Now you tell me, lol. Well, mine has been rock solid for 4 days now
 
I

IniquitousIV

CCA Members
CichlidAddict said:
It's not worth to buy the high end named brand when you can find equivalent LEDs from Ebay at fraction of the price. The named brands use the same basic LED units made in the same few factories in China, just packaged differently with fancy remote and programmable controls.

When choosing LED lights, pay attention to the input unit wattage and the output lumen. LEDs come with 0.1, 0.2, 0.5 and 1 watt per unit. These are rough rating as multiplying the unit wattage and the number of units will give you the approximate, not true input wattage. The output lumen give you a measure of output brightness so you can compare apple to apple. For planted tanks, you need minimum 0.5 watt LED, but for fish only tanks, 0.2 watt is enough.
Click to expand...

Hello Cichlid Addict, ( or anyone else! ):
I have a question that you may be able to help me with. I am setting up a 75 gallon planted tank, glass lid, Aqueon 48 inch LED, plus 2 X 48 Colormax tubes ( 7 watts each ).
In your opinion, would this be considered 'bright' lighting, or 'medium to bright'? This will affect my choice of plants. Any assistance appreciated. Thank you very much.
 
CSnyder00

CSnyder00

Bearded Wonder
It's medium at best. I can grow Anubias with mine decently well, but I stay away from stuff that needs a ton. I'd switch to two daylight and one Colormax for plant growing, but thats my opinion.
 
CichlidAddict

CichlidAddict

Members
Trying to figure out the actual light intensity is not easy because you need to measure it with a PAR meter that costs $$$. The watts per gal rule is also antiquated because today's lights come with different type and (improved) efficiency. It's stupid that many labels still say that it is an X watt light equivalent to an Y watt incandescent dinosaur. Newer labels come with lumens, which should be the common yardstick for comparison. I am no expert in planted tank, and in my research, this rule sounds reasonable.

https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/lighting-a-planted-tank.73446/

My planted 75 runs on a total of 112 watt and 13400 lumens LED. The lights can blind me, but according to the above rule, my light has a score of 127 and can grow only low light plant. Indeed, my Java fern and Anubias are growing, but painfully slowly.
 
I

IniquitousIV

CCA Members
CichlidAddict said:
Trying to figure out the actual light intensity is not easy because you need to measure it with a PAR meter that costs $$$. The watts per gal rule is also antiquated because today's lights come with different type and (improved) efficiency. It's stupid that many labels still say that it is an X watt light equivalent to an Y watt incandescent dinosaur. Newer labels come with lumens, which should be the common yardstick for comparison. I am no expert in planted tank, and in my research, this rule sounds reasonable.

https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/lighting-a-planted-tank.73446/

My planted 75 runs on a total of 112 watt and 13400 lumens LED. The lights can blind me, but according to the above rule, my light has a score of 127 and can grow only low light plant. Indeed, my Java fern and Anubias are growing, but painfully slowly.
Click to expand...
 
I

IniquitousIV

CCA Members
CichlidAddict - thank you for the response. I may buy a cheap but accurate light meter, which measures lux, test the bottom of the empty aquarium at night with the hood light on, convert the reading to lumens, then compare the result with the rule you reference to guide me. I'll probably get a good approximation.
One other question - does anyone on this thread have any experience with the Odyssea light unit with the built in timer and fan?
 
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