180G in-wall reef to cichlid conversion
mdlnewman
Members
DONT LISTEN TO THIS GUY HE HAS FELL AND BUMPED HIS DRUNK HEAD. LISTEN TO AVATAR AND GO NEW WORLD. HARDIER FISH AND YOU DEF WONT NEED TO HEAVY ROCKS JUST SOME NICE DRIFTWOOD/ OR PLANTS...WELCOME TO CCA BY THE WAY!
Besides no one in their right mind would listen to someone who never met a capslock.
creepyoldguy
Members
Get a pair of potamotrygon hystrix w a few geophagus and severums and a black arowana up top(this would eventually outgrow your tank in maybe 3yrs, but you can give it to me!)
Avatar
Plenipotentiary-at-large
Overstocking: Guilty as charged.
Right now in the 75:
2 8-10" Geophagus altifrons
7 3-5" Thorichthys pasionis
10 2-3" Columbian tetras
10 2-3" Buenos Aires tetras
1 large blue angelfish
6 3-5" Biotodoma cupido
10 3-4" Corydoras robustus
2 3-5" yellow Ancistus
3-5 3" Corydoras CW036
6-8 assorted small Corydoras similis and melini
Running an Eheim 2028 and a 2227 plus an Emperor 400. Obviously a 125/150 would be a better fit, but its been like this for several months. When I get my 100 filled the Geos and Biotodomas will have their own digs.
Find that a few species in a tank as opposed to many has several advantages, among them lower maintenance, healthier and more well-adjusted fish, higher likelihood of spawning and other 'natural' behaviors, and potential for an overall equliibrium bordering on equanimity wherein the tank just feels right and less like a tank and more like a habitat. Have a 55 with 5 sub-adult discus, one blue angel, a pair of Keyhole cichlids, some diamond tetras and a couple Corydoras herds distributed around two huge java moss enshrouded driftwood pieces and pennywort strands and one can almost imagine that somewhere in the world that's what it really looks like. Very mellow, very restful tank.
Think there may be a tendency among neophytes and ardent types to amass lots of fish/species very rapidly. I just hit the point where I'm actually decreasing rather than increasing the number I have and starting to spin off more species than I bring home. Nothing wrong with them, but now that the headlong expansion has stopped, it's about fine tuning the aesthetics, maximizing spawning activity and aiming for some sort of balance/dynamic equilibrium within each tank. As I already have that with the filtration and the lighting, it reminds me of all the work that initially goes into creating a garden so that eventually one has the leisure to prune, harvest and simply enjoy it.
"Drink deep, stay wet and spawn often." - Tony Horos, July 23, 2011, ACA Convention, Washington, DC
Right now in the 75:
2 8-10" Geophagus altifrons
7 3-5" Thorichthys pasionis
10 2-3" Columbian tetras
10 2-3" Buenos Aires tetras
1 large blue angelfish
6 3-5" Biotodoma cupido
10 3-4" Corydoras robustus
2 3-5" yellow Ancistus
3-5 3" Corydoras CW036
6-8 assorted small Corydoras similis and melini
Running an Eheim 2028 and a 2227 plus an Emperor 400. Obviously a 125/150 would be a better fit, but its been like this for several months. When I get my 100 filled the Geos and Biotodomas will have their own digs.
Find that a few species in a tank as opposed to many has several advantages, among them lower maintenance, healthier and more well-adjusted fish, higher likelihood of spawning and other 'natural' behaviors, and potential for an overall equliibrium bordering on equanimity wherein the tank just feels right and less like a tank and more like a habitat. Have a 55 with 5 sub-adult discus, one blue angel, a pair of Keyhole cichlids, some diamond tetras and a couple Corydoras herds distributed around two huge java moss enshrouded driftwood pieces and pennywort strands and one can almost imagine that somewhere in the world that's what it really looks like. Very mellow, very restful tank.
Think there may be a tendency among neophytes and ardent types to amass lots of fish/species very rapidly. I just hit the point where I'm actually decreasing rather than increasing the number I have and starting to spin off more species than I bring home. Nothing wrong with them, but now that the headlong expansion has stopped, it's about fine tuning the aesthetics, maximizing spawning activity and aiming for some sort of balance/dynamic equilibrium within each tank. As I already have that with the filtration and the lighting, it reminds me of all the work that initially goes into creating a garden so that eventually one has the leisure to prune, harvest and simply enjoy it.
"Drink deep, stay wet and spawn often." - Tony Horos, July 23, 2011, ACA Convention, Washington, DC
Hawkman2000
Members
Before you choose new world or old world, check out the photo archive at Tangled up in cichlids. http://www.tangledupincichlids.com/photo.html Jeff Rapps in NJ get some cool stuff. Mostly SA and CA. I like the CA myself, sajica, redfaced, HRP. If you go with med. sized new world, you could have got amount of fish in their. If you do the research, you can find ones that are quite docile.
BTW, I don't mean to call your a cichlidiot just because your new, its because cichlids are adictive. They all have their own personalities and are more active in a tank than almost any other type of fish.
BTW, I don't mean to call your a cichlidiot just because your new, its because cichlids are adictive. They all have their own personalities and are more active in a tank than almost any other type of fish.
Tony
Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Ed,
Seriously, stop worrying about what folks will think. Put in the tank what you want to put in there. Lately, I have been seriously considering setting up a 125 mbuna tank.
The key to setting up any mbuna tank is planning. Figure out which types you want, check for compatability and then stock the tank with large groups. Then stick to the plan. The biggest concern that you will have is making sure that the groups you put in there will not interbreed.
A general rule of thumb would be only one fish from each genus, but this doesn't always hold true (some fish of different genuses will interbreed and for others - Some pseudotrohpeus/metriaclima, you can keep more than one in a large tank).
If you're pretty sure about mbuna, go ahead and start another thread in the old world section. Research some fish that are "must-have" and list them up. We can fill in the gaps from there. A good place to start is here:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/
There's a lot of profiles and pictures to help you out.
Seriously, stop worrying about what folks will think. Put in the tank what you want to put in there. Lately, I have been seriously considering setting up a 125 mbuna tank.
The key to setting up any mbuna tank is planning. Figure out which types you want, check for compatability and then stock the tank with large groups. Then stick to the plan. The biggest concern that you will have is making sure that the groups you put in there will not interbreed.
A general rule of thumb would be only one fish from each genus, but this doesn't always hold true (some fish of different genuses will interbreed and for others - Some pseudotrohpeus/metriaclima, you can keep more than one in a large tank).
If you're pretty sure about mbuna, go ahead and start another thread in the old world section. Research some fish that are "must-have" and list them up. We can fill in the gaps from there. A good place to start is here:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/
There's a lot of profiles and pictures to help you out.
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verbal
CCA Members
Numbers(higher) and M/F ratios can be key to managing mbuna aggressiveness. Also starting out with a display tank, you probably want to start with some of the mellower species.
You definitely want to avoid some of the more commonly sold species(at least for this tank). I would look on at the profiles on cichlid-forum.com for ones that have an aggression level of "aggressive" or lower.
longstocking
Members
In a 180 you shouldn't have too many aggression problems with mbuna as long as you stay awy from the big bruts.
Go with what you like! The good thing about cichlids for the most part ... is that they are pretty cheap in comparison to salt water. So you can always switch it up if you don't like it.
I will say this... if you are after color. Go with malawi.
If you are after behavior go with Tangs or South Americans.
If you want a few big fish.... go with New World. If you want tons of little fish, go with Africans
There are exceptions of course.... but the above might help you out.
Go with what you like! The good thing about cichlids for the most part ... is that they are pretty cheap in comparison to salt water. So you can always switch it up if you don't like it.
I will say this... if you are after color. Go with malawi.
If you are after behavior go with Tangs or South Americans.
If you want a few big fish.... go with New World. If you want tons of little fish, go with Africans
There are exceptions of course.... but the above might help you out.
Thanks, Sarah et al. I'm definitely going for colorful small fish. I'd love to get the brilliant blues and yellows etc against a dark background with a fairly cool temp rating bulb color. (I had that with my wrasses, baslets, gobies, grammas, etc). The species variety are rather overwhelming so I would have to do much more research.
Whilst I search and Google, could you recommend any more mellow, less agressive, yet colorful mbuna?
Whilst I search and Google, could you recommend any more mellow, less agressive, yet colorful mbuna?
longstocking
Members
ok one more question before listing off fish.
One of the biggest reason some people keep cichlids is being able to watch the parents breed and take care of the fry. Do you want this? Or just a pretty tank to look at?
One of the biggest reason some people keep cichlids is being able to watch the parents breed and take care of the fry. Do you want this? Or just a pretty tank to look at?
creepyoldguy
Members
Have you ever thought of discus? With some type of schooling fish in a Planted tank? Maybe a few fancy plecos on some driftwood?
Hawkman2000
Members
Java fern and java moss are zero maintenance
verbal
CCA Members
Do you want the focus of the tank to be breeding? Or is having an occasional young fish grow up be a nice bonus.
If the focus of the tank is breeding, I think it would be better to target a fish that needs the space(Frontosas, a Tropheus group or a large hap species). I don't think the tank ideal for breeding mbunas. It can be a pain to get a holding female out of a 55 gallon tank. I can only imagine an in-wall 180.
If breeding is a desired bonus, then just include some yellow labs(Labidochromis caeruleus) in your selection and assuming you have females you should end up with fry and occasional survivors. A nice thing about yellow labs is they will breed without terrorizing the rest of the community.
I've been busy...
Well, I freshened up the old 180, scrubbed everything down, and got rid of a lot of salt creep. I took out the crushed coral to clean it up and get rid of all of the reefy detrius. Then I put eggcrate down for the wild-caught rip-rap and the store bought zebra-rock. Out went the skimmer, in went two Rubbermaid DIY wet-dry trickle boxes. (I have yet to buy the bio balls).
I fired up the metal halides (perhaps for the last time). Wow, that 14K shimmer is nice, but dang, it's hot. But the look almost makes me want to keep them. Please convince me otherwise.
So as you can see in the pix, I have 3 T5HO actinics. I think I'll keep those. I'll take down the MH's and replace it with a 4' NO double PowerGlo fluorescent utility light.
I tried to find two 3' fluorescent fixtures at HD and Lowes, but no luck. Will the 4' fixture be enough for the 6' tank aesthetically???
I'm still going with Malawi. I love the color.
Thoughts, concerns, suggestions?
I still have to add more rock and aquascape, so this is preliminary:
Here is behind the tank and the DIY filters:
It's so hard to say goodbye:
Well, I freshened up the old 180, scrubbed everything down, and got rid of a lot of salt creep. I took out the crushed coral to clean it up and get rid of all of the reefy detrius. Then I put eggcrate down for the wild-caught rip-rap and the store bought zebra-rock. Out went the skimmer, in went two Rubbermaid DIY wet-dry trickle boxes. (I have yet to buy the bio balls).
I fired up the metal halides (perhaps for the last time). Wow, that 14K shimmer is nice, but dang, it's hot. But the look almost makes me want to keep them. Please convince me otherwise.
So as you can see in the pix, I have 3 T5HO actinics. I think I'll keep those. I'll take down the MH's and replace it with a 4' NO double PowerGlo fluorescent utility light.
I tried to find two 3' fluorescent fixtures at HD and Lowes, but no luck. Will the 4' fixture be enough for the 6' tank aesthetically???
I'm still going with Malawi. I love the color.
Thoughts, concerns, suggestions?
I still have to add more rock and aquascape, so this is preliminary:
Here is behind the tank and the DIY filters:
It's so hard to say goodbye:
Tony
Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Wow. Really nice clean setup.
I've had a couple of reef tanks in the past and totally dig the look of the halides. I used to have a 250 MH over my 26 SPS bowfront, lol. Talk about heat....
Anyway, another newer member, Greg did the same thing as you a few months back. He has a build thread here somewhere - converted a large in-wall tank from reef to Africans. I think he ended up ditching the halides in the end, but am not 100% sure.
In my opinion, they look awesome. BUT... they consume a ton of electricity and produce a lot of heat. Beyond that, I don't think Africans really like them all that much. Most rift lake fish come from deep water... 2-5 meters for the most shallow of mbuna, 30-40 meters for peacocks and for Frontosa, something crazy like 50-60 meters deep. Light trails off pretty quickly, even with low turbidity.
I'm rambling, but would say that it may not be a factor and the fish may get used to it, but I'd be concerned over spooking anything short of maybe mbuna or tropheus.
Rocks look great btw. You thinking of Tangs or Malawi?
I've had a couple of reef tanks in the past and totally dig the look of the halides. I used to have a 250 MH over my 26 SPS bowfront, lol. Talk about heat....
Anyway, another newer member, Greg did the same thing as you a few months back. He has a build thread here somewhere - converted a large in-wall tank from reef to Africans. I think he ended up ditching the halides in the end, but am not 100% sure.
In my opinion, they look awesome. BUT... they consume a ton of electricity and produce a lot of heat. Beyond that, I don't think Africans really like them all that much. Most rift lake fish come from deep water... 2-5 meters for the most shallow of mbuna, 30-40 meters for peacocks and for Frontosa, something crazy like 50-60 meters deep. Light trails off pretty quickly, even with low turbidity.
I'm rambling, but would say that it may not be a factor and the fish may get used to it, but I'd be concerned over spooking anything short of maybe mbuna or tropheus.
Rocks look great btw. You thinking of Tangs or Malawi?
Thanks, Tony. Greg's tank is actually the whole reason I'm here. He posted his conversion on CMAS. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna ditch the halides, too. It was a freakin' sauna in the tank room. I haven't fired the MH's up in years.
Good point about the depth of the habitat. But I can imagine the color's really popping with the MH's but I don't want to deal with the heat, evap, electrical bills, etc.
I'm thinking of Malawi right now, but I'm procrastinating on the decision while I get the hardware ready.
Good point about the depth of the habitat. But I can imagine the color's really popping with the MH's but I don't want to deal with the heat, evap, electrical bills, etc.
I'm thinking of Malawi right now, but I'm procrastinating on the decision while I get the hardware ready.
UNCLERUCKUS
"THE ALL POWERFUL Q !!
I DONT EVEN HAVE A 90G ....LOL NEVER HAVE. MY JAGS ARE WERE HOUSED IN A 225 G ALONG WITH 2 OSCARS, 2 GRAMMODES, 2 LOSELLI, 2 JD, 2 BOCOURTI, CONVICTS( LIVE FOOD ON THE FIN WHEN THEY BREED), POLLENI, PLECOS AND CATS, AND A ARGENTEA. THEY ARE NOW BREEDING AND HOUSED IN A 180G ALONE. THESE BIGGER FISH TOGETHER IN THE 225 DIDNT EVEN NOTICE THE POWER WAS OFF OR LACK OF OXYGEN AFTER 4+ HRS. THIS CAUGHT MY ATTENTION CUZ IF I HAD AFRICANS THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN BELLY UP FOR SURE.
SHOELACE THAT SETUP LOOKS GOOD MAN!!
londonloco
Members
I'd sell the MH's, replace the actinic T5's with 6700K bulbs, add one more 80W T5 and call it a day.