180G in-wall reef to cichlid conversion

[Shoelace]

Hello, all,

This is my first post here I a reefer active in CMAS but my 180 reef got too much for me to handle. I'd like to convert it into a cichlid tank and would love some pointers.

It's a 180 reef ready system with two overflows and a 75 gallon sump. I'm getting rid of the metal halides and putting in NO fluorescents. I'd like to build a DIY wet/dry trickle filter.

Also, searched a bit here for where people get rocks. Many people say they capture wild rock from the Patapsco. I'm just curious where good access points are to the river. I live in Columbia.

Any general suggestions would be really helpful since I'm in the very early planning stages.

Thanks,

Ed

 

[mscichlid]

Some of the rocks are captured along drainage ditches commonly named rip-rap or something or another.

Welcome the forum!

 

[Travis]

People are "capturing" rip-rap???

 

[Shoelace]

Yeah, I heard the wild ones (as opposed to the store bought ones) are really hard to capture. You need to sneak up behind them when they least suspect it.

 

[creepyoldguy]

What type of cichlids are you planning to keep?

 

[Shoelace]

Right now, Malawi. But I not sure yet.

 

[minifoot77]

Right now, Malawi. But I not sure yet.

don't go malugly come to the darkside and try tangs :winking0004:

 

[Avatar]

It's a Brave New World...

...and lovely as well. First off you should be looking for driftwood (not rip-rap - yuck) - any boat landing or river bank generally has a dandy selection and it has far more aesthetic and lyric appeal than most rock (crystals, agate and such notwithstanding but these look good in Amazonian tanks as well). Second, if you go New World you can have plants that thrive, no less than a verdant underwater forest if you desire. Third, you can have a true community tank with different species/schools occupying different niches within the water column and the tank itself rather than a gaggle of would be studmuffins dedicated to typically swirling and ravenous Rift Lake behaviors (fun's where the fair's at - fighting's out of style).

Suppose you know what you like and want better than anyone here, but you might look into South America. One can do far worse than discus, angelfish, tetra's, Corydoras, etc. - if you're not in a hurry you could check out the 12 display tanks being set up for the ACA and decide afterwards. Should be a pretty impressive sample of different 'systems'.

 

[Hawkman2000]

I agree with avatar, New world is better for a fisrt time cichlidiot. Ph of 7.0 is easy to maintain. Just pic out some small to fine substrait, some rocks, and some driftwood. In this setting you will be able to grow some java fern or java moss on the wood and the cichlids won't tear it up to much. Their was a previous thread about using roofing granuals for substrait. Also, coralife makes a 96 watt PC bulb that is 50% 6700k and 50% colormax, 36". 2 or 4 of these would be awsome on your 180.

 

[Tony]

Welcome to the club. I keep mostly Malawi stuff and dig it. Don't listen to these guys; keep what you like.

My 180 is now 5 different breeding groups of Malawi cichlids that will not interbreed and show greatly differing behavior. Water quality is easily maintained by either mixing in crushed coral sand into your substrate (I'm guessing you have some laying around the house) or by throwing it in a big sock in the sump.

You can get some cool behavior out of Tangs, but they tend to be a bit more finicky and generally cost more to start up with. It takes a bit more patience and planning, but would be worth the effort if you're up for a challenge.

 

[creepyoldguy]

I say go new world. There's a Tom of options as well. An amazon theme looks amazing when done right. With your size tank, you have a lot of options from oscars to discus!

 

[UNCLERUCKUS]

Welcome to the club. I keep mostly Malawi stuff and dig it. Don't listen to these guys; keep what you like.

My 180 is now 5 different breeding groups of Malawi cichlids that will not interbreed and show greatly differing behavior. Water quality is easily maintained by either mixing in crushed coral sand into your substrate (I'm guessing you have some laying around the house) or by throwing it in a big sock in the sump.

You can get some cool behavior out of Tangs, but they tend to be a bit more finicky and generally cost more to start up with. It takes a bit more patience and planning, but would be worth the effort if you're up for a challenge.

DONT LISTEN TO THIS GUY HE HAS FELL AND BUMPED HIS DRUNK HEAD . LISTEN TO AVATAR AND GO NEW WORLD. HARDIER FISH AND YOU DEF WONT NEED TO HEAVY ROCKS JUST SOME NICE DRIFTWOOD/ OR PLANTS...WELCOME TO CCA BY THE WAY!

 

[Tony]

DONT LISTEN TO THIS GUY HE HAS FELL AND BUMPED HIS DRUNK HEAD .

:smashfreakB:


Just saying.. the dude already said he was leaning towards Africans; not sure why everyone needs to jump on the thread and tell him that Africans suck.

 

[Shoelace]

Lol, I like this debate. It's sorta the same as SPS vs. soft corals. People always have very strong convictions. I love hearing the banter, though, especially when I haven't made a choice yet.

One thing I do know is that I don't want to keep plants or have a fixed lighting cycle. I'm done with that with my prior reef system. I have set up a 30G breeder nano reef with LEDs to keep my coral fix going and have enough to deal with lighting there

I dunno, I just love the look of the smaller Africans. I'm still learning all of the species. It's a different language coming from salt.

I already have a aragonite medium grade sandbed in the tank that I'm going to wash out and use. The sump is empty right now save for the return pump (Eheim 1260). I like the idea of the CF lights. I'll look into them.

Thanks, guys. I have some decisions to make.

 

[Shoelace]

I agree with avatar, New world is better for a fisrt time cichlidiot. Ph of 7.0 is easy to maintain.

LOL "cichlidiot" I am. But I'm hoping my experience with a 180G reef system will give me a little background with pH maintenance

I guess that begs a good question... Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of coming from a reef mentality of fishkeeping? I am actually looking forward to not having to deal with all the reef parameters.

 

[Avatar]

I never said "suck".

Who said suck? Hey, if it's a fish, it rocks. And as a confirmed New World keeper, in my limited experience, Rift species seem "hardier". Coming from wide-open habitats as they do, seems that heightened competition has generally made them very resilient and definitely far less demanding as far as water conditions - for Africans Lake species you lock it in at 7.6-7.8, aim for the desired hardness and you're done - no RO or rainwater required and none of this lowering pH, introducing tannins and such to induce spawning - not that much 'induction' seems to be required of Africans as their native water conditions are essentially static - right hardscaping, companions (if any) and food and they're off. If someone's 'leaning' toward Africans, naturally some of us will try and save him from 'falling' down (principally so we can assist him/her in tumbling down in another direction). But it's all good.

As for potential pitfalls, after a large scale reef effort , I think you'll find freshwater to be a bit like a 'glide path' - far less effort, stress, expense, your facility with water chemistry will always serve, just won't be nearly so obligatory.

 

[Shoelace]

Thanks, Avatar. Well stated. I really have to consider the new vs old world debate. I am looking to simplify my life (kids, work, life etc.)

This is the thread that got me going on the idea:

http://www.cmas-md.org/forums/showthread.php?t=65363&highlight=Reef+cichlid

Greg seems happy. I love that look. He posted here but for some reason the pics did show up in his thread.

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

I guess that begs a good question... Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of coming from a reef mentality of fishkeeping? I am actually looking forward to not having to deal with all the reef parameters.

As Avatar said, you'll find this an easy transition. I kept reef and FOWLR tanks for a few years, but found the maintenance was more than I cared for. IMO, you can maintain 3 freshwater tanks with about the same amount of maintenance effort as one established reef tank.

I honestly rarely ever test parameters in my African tanks anymore. Crushed coral and limestone maintain the pH, water changes keep the other parameters in check. If your fish eat and act healthy, the parameters won't generally tell you much other than you are in range.

My name is true to what I keep, so I keep fish from "both sides of the pond." I have more African tanks than discus, but enjoy both. If you think you like Africans, you should give them a try. If later down the road you realize that isn't the case, you can sell your stock and try another approach. You'll be happier trying something you decided on than trying to go with a concensus vote. This club will provide the resources for you to be successful along the way.

A 180 gives you plenty of options. Let us know if you'd like advice on what types of fish may be compatible once you decide on a biotope.

 

[UNCLERUCKUS]

Who said suck? Hey, if it's a fish, it rocks. And as a confirmed New World keeper, in my limited experience, Rift species seem "hardier". Coming from wide-open habitats as they do, seems that heightened competition has generally made them very resilient and definitely far less demanding as far as water conditions - for Africans Lake species you lock it in at 7.6-7.8, aim for the desired hardness and you're done - no RO or rainwater required and none of this lowering pH, introducing tannins and such to induce spawning - not that much 'induction' seems to be required of Africans as their native water conditions are essentially static - right hardscaping, companions (if any) and food and they're off. If someone's 'leaning' toward Africans, naturally some of us will try and save him from 'falling' down (principally so we can assist him/her in tumbling down in another direction). But it's all good.

As for potential pitfalls, after a large scale reef effort , I think you'll find freshwater to be a bit like a 'glide path' - far less effort, stress, expense, your facility with water chemistry will always serve, just won't be nearly so obligatory.

I MENTIONED HARDIER CUZ MY SA/CA DO FINE IF THERE IS A POWER OUTTAGE( YOU GOTTA LOVE BGE ) WHEN I HAD AFRICANS THEY SEEMED TO DIE FROM LACK OF OXYGEN. BUT YA RIGHT ITS ALL GOOD.

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

I MENTIONED HARDIER CUZ MY SA/CA DO FINE IF THERE IS A POWER OUTTAGE( YOU GOTTA LOVE BGE ) WHEN I HAD AFRICANS THEY SEEMED TO DIE FROM LACK OF OXYGEN. BUT YA RIGHT ITS ALL GOOD.

Thats mostly due to stocking density. Your PAIR of Jags that fill up a 90 gallon tank don't require as much oxygen as 40 mbuna would (which could easily fit in a 90).