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My in wall 125 gallon tank build thread

amiricle

Members
I think that Africans enjoy playing in the sand. I have had the same problem with sand and ACs. In tall tanks, I use only a single lift of the U-tube to keep the input up high, away from most of the sifted sand. On short tanks, I put a coarse sponge over the strainer. This is not ideal, but it works.

Tony,
Thanks for the advice! I just removed the 2nd lift off of all my U-tubes. Great idea!
 

amiricle

Members
Ditch the halides, you can get the same shimmer effect from LEDs.

Check these out -

http://www.ecoxotic.com/aquarium-led-lights/led-par-lights/ecoxotic-par38-aquarium-led-lights.html

You should be able to find pendant light fixtures that these would fit into at home depot. Plus, 21 watts, thats just cool.

They used to have 6700k ones. I would call and ask.

I will defiantly be using these when I have the space for a larger tank


21 watts is very tempting vs the 300 + watts the halids produce. I alreadt spend a lot on the halid fixtures so im prob just going to keep them. I dont plan on turning the halids on more than once or twice a week. Im going to also use the tube light that came with the tank to have on for the majority of the time to save on the electricty bill and to prevent crazy algae growth.
Thanks for all the advice.
 

amiricle

Members
Does anyone have recommendations for a heater? I’ve always used the Vis heaters in my old tanks, but I can’t find them on line, I think they have upgraded them because they look different now. Does anyone have any experience with the updated Vis heaters? Thanks!
 

maddog10

Members
If you ever do decide to drill the tank DO NOT drill tempered glass. Your tank will be in thousands of pieces if you do. You generally run into tempered glass bottoms starting at 75 gallon tanks and going up.
 

KRUCIAN KING

Members
I would go with the hydor inline 300 watt heaters, you want a more clean look less equiptment in the tank. And those heaters are very reliable.
 

amiricle

Members
I would go with the hydor inline 300 watt heaters, you want a more clean look less equiptment in the tank. And those heaters are very reliable.

Is this the one your talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor--Line-H...7VQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309320974&sr=8-1

I would love to hide the heater behind the tank, but there are 4 reviews on amazon about how the heater stops working after a couple months. Someone also said the heater randomly raised their temp to 102 and killed all his fish. Do you have this heater? if so, for how long? Thanks for the advice!
 

amiricle

Members
If you ever do decide to drill the tank DO NOT drill tempered glass. Your tank will be in thousands of pieces if you do. You generally run into tempered glass bottoms starting at 75 gallon tanks and going up.

Thanks for the advice, deff not gonna drill that tank. I was first going to run sump but decided on getting a fx-5 instead.
 

amiricle

Members
Here is an update of the tank progress, this weekend im going to fill her up and start the cycle with some goldfish.

TANK2.jpg


TANK1-1.jpg
 

Tony

Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Looks ready to go, Amir. Now all you need to add is some fish!
 

amiricle

Members
I finally have the tank filled! Here are some quick pics I just took. I have 2 different lights on the tank, a 2x150 watt metal halid fixture and then the normal fluorescent light fixture that came with the tank. I have the fluorescent lights on most of the time to save on electricity. Let me know what you guys think!

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These pics are with the fluorescent lights:
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I’m having some issues with the lighting… since I have 2 different fixtures, the halide had to be pushed back all the way towards the back of the tank. The problem with this is that when the fish swim near the front of the tank, the light does not shine on them (same problem when I put the halide towards the front, the back becomes dim). You can see this in some of my pics, the male venustus looks black. I might just take out the fluorescent fixture, and center the halide, but the halide uses so much electricity!
 

Andrewtfw

Global Moderators
You may want to consider changing the type of lighting altogether if you can't get the lighting how you want it and the halides cost so much. Since the tank is in the wall, maybe you could build a box to support LED spots or floods (depending on the look you want).

How is the FX5 working for you? I own four of them. I run two on a 125 and two on a 135. I found that one was great for a four foot tank that was not too tall but two was better on a longer tank.
 

amiricle

Members
Andrew,
Money is really tight after this tank build, so I dont think I could afford new lights. From what ive seen, the LED light bulbs can cost around 50 bucks a bulb. Do you know of a cheaper LED lighting set up?

I love the FX5, I am looking for a 2nd one for this tank as well. Before I bought the FX5, I was using AC110's. I deff like canisters more because they are so much more quite. Thanks!
 
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