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Tips on breeding shelldwellers? specifically n.similis

Acara19

CCA Members
I plan on breeding shelldwellers pretty soon, (specifically n. similis) in a 20 long. I have a general idea of their care and breeding, and I just had some questions-
-can they be on bare bottom or do they need sand?
-do I need to move fry to a growout?
-can I grow fry out in a 10 gallon?
-what exactly do I feed the fry? once free swimming are they big enough to eat newly hatched brine shrimp?
-how fast do the fry grow?
-how big do the parents need to be to breed?
-how many adults do I need to buy to start a breeding colony?
 

Kwatics

CCA Members
I recently became interested in shell-dwellers, too. I'm picking up some gold ocellatus from Dave at BFD. I was looking into N. Similis, but he was out. I don't have any experience with them yet, but here's what I've found from reading up on shell-dwellers so far:

1) Sand, particularly aragonite sand, may be best.

The typical "shell-dweller" varieties are split between opportunistic shell-dwellers (those that are primarily cave dwellers / spawners, but will use shells as an alternative), shell-spawners (those that use shells primarily for spawning only), and "true" shell-dwellers (those that will live and spawn in shells).

N. Similis are "true" shell-dwellers and will re-arrange the sand (although not as much as N. Multifasciatus, apparently) as part of claiming a shell / making a secure territory. I would say that sand (vs. bare bottom) is part of helping them feel secure enough to spawn.

I have heard that pool filter sand is sufficient for shell-dwellers, but other sites have recommended aragonite sand (which is a carbonate material) to help with pH and buffering. That should help to increase pH (and KH to help keep pH stable).

2) I would move the fry to a separate grow-out. Once the fry are born, the female tends to "eject" the male from the territory. Once the fry are large enough, they too are then "ejected" from the territory. I believe some shell-dwellers tend to engage in "communal parenting" behavior, but I'm not sure if N. Similis is one of those or not. I believe the fry are generally safe from the parents, but the other Similis in the tank may see them as competitors / food.

If focusing on breeding, some sites recommend using PVC elbows with end caps instead of shells. That way, you can take the elbow out of the water and remove the end cap to remove (i.e., "drain") the fry from the "shell". Another way is to place the shell (with the fry) on top of something within the growout tank (i.e., above the sand) - they will eventually see that they are higher up / off the floor of the tank and leave the shell on their own.

3) I think size of the grow-out would depend on number of fry and amount of filtration, etc. 10 gal seems okay to start with to me, but someone with more experience would know better.

4) Once free-swimming, fry should be large enough to eat baby brine shrimp. Prior to free-swimming, I believe the female will actually feed them. There is also some speculation that the female will arrange / bury the shell so that the tank currents filter microorganisms into the shell.

5) Not sure about rate of growth for fry, or adult size necessary to breed. I believe some varieties of shell-dwellers will breed before they reach their full adult size, but not sure.

6) Some shell dwellers spawn in pairs. N. Similis is a "harem style" spawner, where one male will spawn with multiple females. I have heard 1 male to 2-4 females is a good ratio. I have seen the guideline of each fish establishing a 6" x 6" "territory". So, for a 20L with a footprint of 30" x 12", that would be 10 "territories" (max). I'm hoping to setup a 20L with 2 males / 6-8 females for my gold ocellatus. We'll see how it goes :)
 

Acara19

CCA Members
my tap PH is already at 7.8, so I guess I'm good in that regard. Thanks for the advice, and good luck on your gold ocellatus, those little guys sure seem fun, from what I've read about them they've got alot of personality and unique behaviors.
 

CSnyder00

Bearded Wonder
A few other pointers...

Make sure you read your pH after it has been in the tank for an hour or so. Mine drops from 8.4ish to 6.5ish in short order because my city uses a special additive to prevent acidic erosion in city pipes.

PVC elbows work well, but escargot shells or natural shells help keep the pH higher.

Several folks I’ve talked with that keep shell dwellers use play sand or pool filter sand as their base with a good layer of crushed coral on the top to keep a steady pH. The fish still are able to dig and bury the shells just fine. Most live on top of large shell beds in the wild, so some crushed coral won’t slow them down at all.

If you are going the Similis route, you shouldn’t have to pull fry until you’ve got a higher population density. Other species are more prone to eating the fry.

The other poster did a good job, just felt like I had a few short things to add.
 

Freakgecko

Members
I use play sand in my shellie setups, and have a pretty common design whenever I set one up (I’ve had them on and off over the years). My tank consisted of a few medium sized chunks of holey rock on the left side, arranged in an “L” shape, stacked up a bit. I usually place a piece of smal jungle Val behind this part, and sometimes have some driftwood (small tiger, spider, or manzanita branches work great) coming out of the rocks. On the other half of the tank, I use play sand with escargot shells and Mexican turbo snail shells (my personal favorite). I try to keep 2-3 shells per adult, depending on the species. On the open end, I put a sponge filter. I try to have a HOB on the rock end, or at least somewhere to maintain some flow. Underneath the sand is egg crate, in case they dig too much, nothing can hit the bottom pane of glass and crack it.

This setup has worked well for me for multifasciatus, ocellatus, and now Brevis.
 
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