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Stock tanks outside, how?

chriscoli

Administrator
I used to fuss over my outside tubs much more than I do now, but they're really a completely different thing. Last year, I let some of my tubs go a REALLY long time before doing a waterchange. I just topped them off when they were low (for the record, my water is only moderately hard). They were still incredibly productive and didn't really look like they needed the waterchange. I DO have to frequently feed the plants, they run out of micronutrients fast. I like having some water mint in each tank for that reason. It seems to suffer from the lack of fertilizers first (by looking sad an yellow) and I can see almost an overnight difference in it when I add them back in.
 

mchambers

Former CCA member
I used to fuss over my outside tubs much more than I do now, but they're really a completely different thing. Last year, I let some of my tubs go a REALLY long time before doing a waterchange. I just topped them off when they were low (for the record, my water is only moderately hard). They were still incredibly productive and didn't really look like they needed the waterchange. I DO have to frequently feed the plants, they run out of micronutrients fast. I like having some water mint in each tank for that reason. It seems to suffer from the lack of fertilizers first (by looking sad an yellow) and I can see almost an overnight difference in it when I add them back in.
How do you fertilize them? Plant tabs or dosing the water?
 

chriscoli

Administrator
How do you fertilize them? Plant tabs or dosing the water?

Both. For plant-only tubs, I'll fertilize with whatever. For tubs with fish, I try to go with root tabs or fertilizers that I know are safe in a planted tank. I used flourish last year to get the micronutrients back in, but that's because I had it on hand. There's probably something that's better for ponds. For my heavy feeders (lotuses and lilies) I've been using a technique I heard about somewhere else. I break up Jobe's Fruit and Citrus tree fertilizer spikes (NPK is 9-12-12) into pea-sized chunks with a hammer and use these as root tabs.
 

mchambers

Former CCA member
For my heavy feeders (lotuses and lilies) I've been using a technique I heard about somewhere else. I break up Jobe's Fruit and Citrus tree fertilizer spikes (NPK is 9-12-12) into pea-sized chunks with a hammer and use these as root tabs.
I think I remember Walter ( Z zendog ) suggesting this technique. I'll have to try it this year.
 

mchambers

Former CCA member
The temperature in my pond this morning is 72F, up from 59F five days ago. I'm thinking it's about time to put the South American fish in, since the forecast is for a warm stretch, except for Tuesday . The Asian fish went in three weeks ago when the temperatures were in the upper 60s.
 

mchambers

Former CCA member
Saw my first fry in my pond yesterday, much to my surprise. I think it was a Danio kyathit, which I put in the pond on April 23, but can't be sure that's what it was, of course.
 

mchambers

Former CCA member
Just saw two Anomalochromis thomasi shepherding around a cloud of fry. And I only added the thomasi on May 20, so that's quick work!
 

Becca

Members
I've been lazy about moving my barbs out, but I really should. I worry they'll eat all my Tanichthys fry. I also really need to decide where to put the okefenokee sunfish.
 

mchambers

Former CCA member
I've been lazy about moving my barbs out, but I really should. I worry they'll eat all my Tanichthys fry. I also really need to decide where to put the okefenokee sunfish.
Yes, I decided not to put barbs in my pond, due to concern that they’d eat. All the other fry.
 

b considine

a dude playing a dude disguised as another dude
I added some Desmopuntius hexazona on Labor Day weekend, but I barely even see them in the pond, let alone fry.

Blaise
 
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