How much flow is too much?

[londonloco]

My WP25 died on my 75g Tangy tank (I had it set at about 1000gph on a wavemode). In looking at power heads on the market now, I'm leaning towards 2 Hydor Evolution's w/the controller, set at alternating on off, but torn between the 650gph and the 850gph.

The tank has two Eheim Classic 2215's with spray bars on it. The inhabitants are 7 Julie Bembas (six are 1" fry), 2 adult Daffodils, 5 adult Synodontis petricola and one very old Calico Bristlenose.

.....so as the title says, how much flow is too much? Need help here.....

 

[Frank Cowherd]

I am not sure you can have too much flow. But then if the rocks start moving around, then that is probably too much.

More movement of water means more oxygen getting to every part of the aquarium and that is a good thing. So I consider more water movement the better. Of course in a planted tank more water movement means less CO2 stays in the water so the plants do not grow as well. But in a cichlid tank, or Rift Lake tank, more water movement is probably better. More oxygen getting to all parts of the aquarium usually also means a cleaner looking aquarium.

 

[londonloco]

I am not sure you can have too much flow. But then if the rocks start moving around, then that is probably too much.

Now this my friend, is very funny!

More movement of water means more oxygen getting to every part of the aquarium and that is a good thing. So I consider more water movement the better. Of course in a planted tank more water movement means less CO2 stays in the water so the plants do not grow as well. But in a cichlid tank, or Rift Lake tank, more water movement is probably better. More oxygen getting to all parts of the aquarium usually also means a cleaner looking aquarium.

I was thinking the 650gph x 2 would be enough, but I guess if I EVER get that 180g, the 850gph would be better.........the flow isn't controllable tho, only the on/off function is controllable. Hmmmmmm........

 

[londonloco]

Anyone else?

 

[zendog]

I don't really think of Lake Tanganyika as a high flow location, except possibly the surge zone since it is large and wind will pick up pretty big waves. So high flow for fish like eretmodus and tropheus makes sense.

While I don't expect it will harm them to have more flow and the added oxygenation Frank mentions has benefits, as rock dwellers your fish are certainly fine with lower flow than even the 650gph heads. If you are planning to breed any of them I would actually wonder (but certainly don't know) if higher flow might in some way inhibit spawning behavior, so I would make sure there are quieter areas of the tank as well.

Rock dwelling tangs have done great for me in a 40 breeder with a single Aquaclear 70 plus a couple sponge filters. So not a lot of flow.

That is just my experience. Let us know what you do and how it works out.

 

[londonloco]

I don't really think of Lake Tanganyika as a high flow location, except possibly the surge zone since it is large and wind will pick up pretty big waves. So high flow for fish like eretmodus and tropheus makes sense.

While I don't expect it will harm them to have more flow and the added oxygenation Frank mentions has benefits, as rock dwellers your fish are certainly fine with lower flow than even the 650gph heads. If you are planning to breed any of them I would actually wonder (but certainly don't know) if higher flow might in some way inhibit spawning behavior, so I would make sure there are quieter areas of the tank as well.

Rock dwelling tangs have done great for me in a 40 breeder with a single Aquaclear 70 plus a couple sponge filters. So not a lot of flow.

That is just my experience. Let us know what you do and how it works out.

Thanks for the reply. I have always had power heads in addition to my filters for flow, even my 12g multi tank, doesn't seem to hurt breeding at all. I know for sure it helps keep the bottom clean which in turn helps less algae. Since I'm going to have two power heads alternating, I'm now leaning towards the 850gph (one ph will be on at a time). I'll post a pic when I get them on the tank.

 

[CichlidAddict]

If you are talking about water flow in a cichlid tank, more flow won't hurt. If you keep planted or labryinth fish tank, more flow can drive off CO2 or bubble nesting fish crazy. If you are talking about flow in filters, I have problem with high flow filters because the filter media get clogged too soon and prematurely. By replacing smaller impellers in my HOBs, the media get clogged slower but more thoroughly.

 

[dogofwar]

That much filtration and flow is way more than necessary and probably counterproductive to keeping and breeding those fish.

That crud is off of the bottom (vs. sucked into a filter) might look a bit better but certainly isn't going to make the water "cleaner" (or reduce algae).

For perspective, I've kept and bred plenty of Tangs in 55g's and 30g's with nothing but a pile or two of rocks, and one each (air-driven) sponge filter and a box filters.

Having a bunch of flow in Malawi Hap and mbuna tanks (and probably Tropheus tanks) is great (especially if the tank is heavily stocked) but substrate spawning Tangs are better with less flow...

Matt

 

[JLW]

As long as the far side of the tank remains attached, you're okay.

 

[londonloco]

If you are talking about water flow in a cichlid tank, more flow won't hurt. If you keep planted or labryinth fish tank, more flow can drive off CO2 or bubble nesting fish crazy. If you are talking about flow in filters, I have problem with high flow filters because the filter media get clogged too soon and prematurely. By replacing smaller impellers in my HOBs, the media get clogged slower but more thoroughly.

I hear you on the filters, seems I have to clean those 2215's monthly.

 

[londonloco]

That crud is off of the bottom (vs. sucked into a filter) might look a bit better but certainly isn't going to make the water "cleaner" (or reduce algae). Matt

Well, I'm not so sure I agree with this part of your post, and I def can only comment what happens in my tanks, but the first thing I check when I see an increase in algae is 1-last time I cleaned my filters and 2-are the ph's working. This is how I realized my WP25 died (it was pretty old), I started seeing green film algae.

Before my Sumbu's went on their killing spree, those Daffadols breed on a regular basis, and that was with an estimated 1000gph ph in the tank. As far as breeding, I really don't save fry anymore. Over the past 15 years I've gone from one, to 17 tanks, back down to three tanks. But whose to say I won't get back into breeding...<vbg>.

 

[londonloco]

As long as the far side of the tank remains attached, you're okay.

LOL, thanks Josh.....

 

[londonloco]

Thanks for all the replies all. I love discussions like these, I'm sure everyone agrees it's a continual learning curve. I'm going to go with the 2x 600gph with the controller, if I feel it's too much flow, I can always just use one ph. I'll post some pics and give a review on this thread in a few weeks.

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

I have a 900gph powerhead on a 120 (60x18x26) and sometimes it seems like a little much, but its a tropheus tank, so I don't worry about it. The tropheus now seem to spend more time on the right side of the tank, away from the circulation, but I think the extra current does prevent some fighting. I think its good for the tropheus though, since they come from the surge zone, but curious to see how it affects the rock dwellers.

 

[londonloco]

I have a 900gph powerhead on a 120 (60x18x26) and sometimes it seems like a little much, but its a tropheus tank, so I don't worry about it. The tropheus now seem to spend more time on the right side of the tank, away from the circulation, but I think the extra current does prevent some fighting. I think its good for the tropheus though, since they come from the surge zone, but curious to see how it affects the rock dwellers.

I just ordered 2x 850gph Evolutions and a Hydor controller on Amazon for 119$ total, delivered to my door by 9pm tonight (this was 20$ cheaper than DFS's "kit", and more than that w/any other combo I could find this morning). I decided last min to go with the 850gph because when I walked into my office, the WP10 backup I had on the 75g had died. I use these old WP's as back ups for both fw and sw tanks (I have one left if memory serves me), if the Evolutions are too much, they will serve as reef back ups and I'll move onto lower flow.

I had the WP10 on full blast (1000gph per specs, but these are older and failing), doesn't seem to bother the Tangy's in the tank at all, but hey, they don't speak so observation is key.......

Also, here is a pic of the tank I took this morning before the lights came on, switched them on early and the fish were still sleeping...ha!

 

[CichlidAddict]

That crud is off of the bottom (vs. sucked into a filter) might look a bit better but certainly isn't going to make the water "cleaner" (or reduce algae).

Matt

My goal of mechanical filtration is to remove suspended solid so that the water looks crystal clear, not to suck up every crud in the bottom. At Matt said, removing more crub won't make the water much cleaner. I much prefer to remove bottom crub during weekly WC than to let it clog up my filter. Some accumulation underneath rock is fine which is not visible but convenient to remove during WC. If you want crub free bottom, keep fish in bare tank with high power mechanical filters.

 

[dogofwar]

Or use sand (crud accumulates on top)...

My goal of mechanical filtration is to remove suspended solid so that the water looks crystal clear, not to suck up every crud in the bottom. At Matt said, removing more crub won't make the water much cleaner. I much prefer to remove bottom crub during weekly WC than to let it clog up my filter. Some accumulation underneath rock is fine which is not visible but convenient to remove during WC. If you want crub free bottom, keep fish in bare tank with high power mechanical filters.

 

[CichlidAddict]

An all sand bottom is like a bare bottom tank, but better because there is more effective area for microbes and BB. But with rockscape on top of sand, crud will still accumulate at dead spots and underneath rock. I don't mind the accumlation, because I do weekly WC to target crud accumulation areas. It's only bad if one let crud to build up for long term in canisters or rockscape. I don't use sand, but an inch thickness of 1 to 2 mm dolomite gravel which over time will disintegrate into sand size anyway. As I do weekly WC including substrate vacuuming, I prefer some trapping in the substrate to reduce loading to my mechanical filters. With high microbial population, crud breaks up rapidly in substrate and looks better than in bare bottom tank.