I can't fix my fish

[captmicha]

I got some live-bearers for my cichlids tanks. 4 lyretail mollies and 4 lyretail swordtails.

They're still in my 15 gallon QT tank for a couple of months now bc I can't get them healthy. They're worse now than when I got them.

They have white, fuzzy growths on the ends of their fins and cloudy, white patches that loose scales. I can't tell if these are slimy. I don't know how I would tell. And occasionally white, stringy feces but no bloating.

I've tried cranking up the heater to 80. 10 day course of Kanamycin and also Nitrofuracin Green. And a repeat.

Nothing is happening. The fins look better after the Nitro, but when it's over, they start to get bad again.

I'm doing the 25% water change every. single. day. I'm even cleaning out the mulm and am only feeding them 1x a day.

I have an air pump running and also a 40 gallon filter. This was an up and running tank already. But after every Nitro course, I use seeded filter media.

The tank is planted, sand bed, and some hides.

I'm not having these problems in any of my other tanks. In fact, I even pulled Molly fry from the same tank that look fine now in my nursery tank.

I'm eventually going to switch the mollies over to Malawi parameters; in case it's my conditions (GH 8, KH 2, pH 6.5), but that doesn't explain the swordtails then. (Referring to the brackish conditions argument.)

?? What now? I'm not even sure what my next course of action should be.

It would make some sense if I had some antibiotic resistance for maybe one of these conditions, especially if gram negative, but for both?? Also, I finished the courses completely. As per instructions.

 

[Becca]

You try salt? They're brackish fish.

 

[chriscoli]

agreed, I'd give them a rest with some salt. I find that sometimes after I've treated a fish with too many meds, they go downhill anyhow. Some of these fish meds are really hard on their kidneys (and probably other organs) and I suspect it impacts their immune system too, making them susceptible to a cascade of secondary disorders as well.

If you really feel the need to treat them with something you might try Dr. Tim's First Defense Stress Relief. I've had good results with some fish, but not all. It might give them the edge that they need to recover. I suspect, though, that if a fish is too far gone it won't help (but neither would anything else).

http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/stress-relief-immune-support

 

[captmicha]

I know mollies are brackish, but swordtails too? That's another reason why I find this odd.

I was going to set up my mollies in Malawi conditions and the swords keep around the same and eventually put those in with my central and South American cichlids.

The mollies would go in with my Haps. I have one while type female Molly in with them already. I couldn't get weight on her and her fins were often clamped despite clean water. But since putting her in with my Haps, she looks great.

I guess I should try Melafix in the future before going to heavier meds. I got into a bad habit bc I got sick of losing fish. From recommended sources, whenever I'd take a chance with fish that weren't tank raised by another club member.

 

[chriscoli]

I think Frank or someone who knows livebearers should weigh in on things, but I've always had trouble with mine if they don't have enough hardness to the water. Maybe they don't need to go full brackish though.

 

[zendog]

Swordtails may not require brackish, but they are definitely from harder water than your well water. They are better off in water closer to the Malawi pH, so it is very likely the lower hardness and pH are contributing to the persistence of the issues you are having even after medication. Salt would help them with their slime coats and skin issues, but get the pH up as well.

If it was me, I'd use the formula I suggested in the Malawi water thread, but push the salt to 1tbsp - so 1tbsp marine salt, 1tsp baking soda and 1 tsp epsom salt per 5 gallons. Depending on how they reacted I might push the salt up to 2 TBS or higher per 5 gallons, since I expect they will handle that level easily and you might need that at least short term to help them along. I'm pretty sure Brackish would be closer to 1/2 or 1 cup of salt per 5 gallons, so you'd still be closer to fresh than full brackish.

If Frank chimes in definitely take his advice since he has a lot of experience with livebearers and his fish are amazingly healthy.

 

[captmicha]

But my Haps won't be able to live at that salt concentration, will they?

 

[dogofwar]

Table/aquarium Salt is different than sea salt (Instant Ocean, etc.).

All of your fish will be fine with 1 tsp / 2-3 gallons.

Matt