Thermostatic mixing valves

Another idea that I've been mulling over for the new fishroom is about the installation of a thermostatic mixing valve for use with an automatic waterchange system.

Anyone have experience with thermostatic mixing valves?

I don't have any experience, but they shouldn't be tough to figure out. I think you just pipe hot and cold to them and set the valve to a temperature and it does the rest.

On an interesting side note, Tony and I had a brief conversation with Chris Biggs about his auto water changing system at his house. He uses very small tubing to his tanks (think the stuff that runs to an ice maker in your fridge) and he changes with cold water all the time. He reported that the low flow didn't have an adverse effect on his fish. We didn't get the full explanation as a talk was getting ready to start, but it is something to think about.

Jon

Tons of experience. Get a nice particulate filter sub 5 micron or a softener. Your water will eventually calcifi the inside and it won't work well. Also install a heat trap. And a return pump for optimal performance. Don't forget check valves on both feed lines to the mixing valve.

Drew

blkmjk said:

Tons of experience. Get a nice particulate filter sub 5 micron or a softener. Your water will eventually calcifi the inside and it won't work well. Also install a heat trap. And a return pump for optimal performance. Don't forget check valves on both feed lines to the mixing valve.

Drew

Click to expand...

oooooh lots of good information there, but difficult to parse for the uninitiated. Please tell me more!

jonclark96 said:

I don't have any experience, but they shouldn't be tough to figure out. I think you just pipe hot and cold to them and set the valve to a temperature and it does the rest.

On an interesting side note, Tony and I had a brief conversation with Chris Biggs about his auto water changing system at his house. He uses very small tubing to his tanks (think the stuff that runs to an ice maker in your fridge) and he changes with cold water all the time. He reported that the low flow didn't have an adverse effect on his fish. We didn't get the full explanation as a talk was getting ready to start, but it is something to think about.

Jon

Click to expand...

Yeah, after talking to Biggs, I plan on abandoning my irrigation drip lines and heads and going with RO tubing, running all the way from a main panel at the doorway to the tanks. Valves will be plastic versions of the standard ones we use for air on a central loop.

It's probably not the most efficient in terms of using a lot of material, but I don't have a ridiculous amount of tanks, so it should be fine. Plus there's the convenience and cool factor of having a panel right there at the entrance where you can control everything (and most importantly, shut off tanks completely if desired).

As for thermostatic mixing valves, the only drawback is cost. I've yet to find a solid one under about $100. Still looking though and will hit you up once I decide on one.

I've never used mixing valves on any of my fishroom set-ups, because I prefer to have flexibility to control the temp of the water on an ad hoc basis. Cooler water in the summer and warmer in the winter.

I've sourced water for my water-changing systems either from the tap or a big rubbermaid tub.

You can get as fancy as you want with the way to add water to tanks but I've had the best luck with black drip irrigation tube, black tubing (like airline tubing except black, stiffer and available at hardware stores) and drip irrigation fittings in a closed loop (on the ceiling above the tanks).

Initially I started with a timer (to make it auto on/off), a pressure regulator (to the loop) and emitters with flow regulators (e.g. 1 gph or 2 gph) but found it unnecessarily complicated.

The best set up was to run water (of the desired temp) from the tap to the irrigation line loop, to (one or more) unconstrained (by drip emitter) branch lines to each tank on the system. I only used emitters to really small tanks...and multiple lines to big ones. Turning water off to a tank is as easy as putting the branch line to it into another tank or putting a plug in the end (some of which come with drip irrigation kits).

I found myself wanting to turn the water on to the system when I came home from work or whenever I was around vs. when I had the timer on... so I got rid of the timers. Some days I could do a big, warm (auto) water change and others a small, cool one. The timer and the flow-controlling emitters got in the way of this.

Matt

Ok so what exactly would you like to expand upon? A recirculation pump is just to maintain a nice constant delivery temperature. And it is run from the furthest point of use back to the leaving side of the mixing valve. It is specifically seen in larger volume systems and may not be necessary in your install. For ease of use I recommend the use of a constant drip. Danger chicken used one and his water quality was top notch! Never seen cleaner water. None of his tanks were drilled. Used a overflow that he homemade with PVC to get the water out of the tanks. Double carbon setup because of your locale and chloramine.

In all honesty I use two valves with checks in each tee'd together. I change the temp by changing the position of the two valves. Very simple to hook up and highly effective.

Drew