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Fish room planning

verbal

CCA Members
So I have gotten permission to use 1/2 of our rec room as a fish room.

I plan to build my fish room around 30 breeder tanks(and maybe some 40s).

At this point I am trying to decide to do the rack(s) 2 or 3 high. Also trying to decide between 2x4(or probably 2x3) and commercial shelving. Any recommendations from those who have fish rooms?

I don't think getting a drain in the room will be possible, but I do have a patio where I can empty out waste water. I probably am going to use Matt Quinns overflow design for most of the tanks.
 

Tony

Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Awesome! So the trip to the Christmas party a few weeks ago didn't send the wife running? ;)

Triple-stacked 40s work, but can be tight. I'd say start with them triple-stacked. If you're like me, if you don't now, you'll wish you did six months from now.

I'm partial to 2x4 construction personally. Cheaper and more flexible than commercial shelving and not all that difficult to design and put together.
 

dogofwar

CCA Members
I'd go three high (but that's just me). Maybe 2 (lower rows) of 30/40 breeders and a top row of 15s or 20Ls.

In my old fishroom, having a whole rack of (I think 15 or 16) drilled 15gs with a 150g underneath was great. I just added water to the 15s (and drained some from the 150g) and water would drain into the (dump filter) for the 150g. I could close off the overflow for a tank and use it for quarantine...or hatching eggs/growing wigglers.

I'd also go with concrete block (I use the 6" ones) and two-by stand construction. It takes up a little more room than, say, only wood construction but it's simple to set-up and re-arrange. The fronts of the blocks make a nice place to store food, etc. as well.

Have fun with your set-up!

Matt
 

Beeman

Members
At what point do those of you with bigger tanks, or multiple stacked set-ups, worry about the wght. and whether your floor will support it without sagging? Am I being anal worrying about a 90g? We have, by todays standards, massive floor joists, true 4x8s here in the farmstead, with pine-wood floors.
 

Tony

Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
At what point do those of you with bigger tanks, or multiple stacked set-ups, worry about the wght. and whether your floor will support it without sagging? Am I being anal worrying about a 90g? We have, by todays standards, massive floor joists, true 4x8s here in the farmstead, with pine-wood floors.

All of my big tanks are set up in my basement, on a concrete slab (as are Matt's). At our old house in Rockville, we had a 110 set up in the living room. Because of the height, I was nervous so set up floor jacks in the crawl space under the four legs of the stand.

Here's an awesome article relating aquarium weight to design of timber-framed buildings:

http://www.african-cichlid.com/Structure.htm
 

jonclark96

Past CCA President
I have all my tanks on framed decks versus concrete slabs. I noticed a little bit of floor deflection when I set up my 180 (about 1/4" gap below the shoe molding on the wall after the tank was filled) but nothing anywhere else in the house. Framed construction is a lot more sturdy than you think. I worry more about leaks and it coming down through the house than I do about structural failures.
 

verbal

CCA Members
Awesome! So the trip to the Christmas party a few weeks ago didn't send the wife running? ;)

I think seeing your fish room made her concretely realize it would be better to have them consolidated, rather than a tank in almost every room.
 

verbal

CCA Members
I think I am going to start by building(with 2x3s) a 3 high rack with a 40 BR on the bottom a 30 BR in the middle and a 20 long on the top(although may keep the width 18"). All of these tanks are drilled, so it should be pretty easy to plumb them to do "overflow water changes".

That way I can make sure I like the height before I build a rack for the rest of the tanks. Also that set-up should be able to handle most of the fish on my current rack(3-15s, 2-5s and a 10).

I think the results with wood racks will be more presentable than 2x4s and cinder blocks, although I would likely go that route for a basement fish room.
 

Tony

Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Sounds like a great start, Jessie. I would definitely build the stand so that you can upgrade to an 18" tank down the road when you're ready.

You remember my room. On the big rack, I started out with 3 20L on the top row, 8 10s on the second and 2 40s and 2 20H on the bottom shelf. That's since been changed up to a 40B and 125 on top and 4 50s below. If I went with my initial design of 2x4s around the edges instead of shelves, I wouldn't have been able to move tanks around.
 

Charlutz

Members
Hey Jesse -

In case you are still considering, here's a picture of one of the racks in my fishroom. The one by the door is a 40br/40br/75 and the ceiling is only 7'2" high. I used 2x4's for the same reasons Tony indicated -- they are cheap and easy to work with. I laid the bottom 2x4 flat to maximize the working room above the tanks. I also used styrofoam under each tank which adds height. Working in the tanks is fine. It helps that I have long arms, but it's not bad. If you have a decent height in the ceiling of the room, a triple stack 40 should work fine. Oh, and for water changes, I use a powerhead hooked to some tubing. I just drop it in the tank and pump out for water changes. Feel free to ask whatever questions occur to you. Good luck!

FishStuff017.jpg
 

maddog10

Members
Just remember to keep about 8" of clear space above the tank (more is better). Any less than that and it is a PITA to work in the tank.
 

verbal

CCA Members
Just remember to keep about 8" of clear space above the tank (more is better). Any less than that and it is a PITA to work in the tank.

Yeah I am aiming for 12" of clearance above the tanks. It might be a bit of overkill, but as you said too much is a lot better than too little.
 

Pat Kelly

CCA Member
Staff member
Yeah I am aiming for 12" of clearance above the tanks. It might be a bit of overkill, but as you said too much is a lot better than too little.


It's never over kill when you have to pull an Aquaclear 110 from behind the tank and have to try to fit it between the light and rack with out spilling its contents. LOL
 

Pat Kelly

CCA Member
Staff member
I know you will want to start right away.
Don't forget that we have a speaker coming in March to talk high tech fish rooms too.
 

Charlutz

Members
I know you will want to start right away.
Don't forget that we have a speaker coming in March to talk high tech fish rooms too.

Yes!!! I took a lot of the ideas for my fishroom from the last time Dan came to speak to us (dehumidistat and vent fan, constant temperature water mixing valve, multiple drains around the room, electrical outlets at 3.5' off the floor, importance of leaving space behind tanks...) I am sure there is more I've forgotten. Dan's talk may be one of the most useful talks we've ever had (will have). :jumpy: Bring something on which to take notes. I didn't last time, but won't make that mistake again.
 

verbal

CCA Members
I know you will want to start right away.
Don't forget that we have a speaker coming in March to talk high tech fish rooms too.

I looked at his article in the BB, it was a big help. I definitely will look into the possibility of an outlet with a mixing valve.
 

verbal

CCA Members
here is how I did mine: http://www.capitalcichlids.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11778

I went with three-tiered. What is yoru clearance? There are a lot of considerations when pickign how many high you will go, from netting to decor.

The room height is not an issue, the ceilings are very high.

I am going with a 2x4 rack 3 high. I am going to start with a test stand for 3 tanks and see what works and what doesn't from there.

I bought the wood for the test stand last night. I have to clear out a few things from the room before I can start building.
 
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